Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy all.

I ran my Stagea at the local drags last weekend for a bit of fun. The best time I could do was a 16.72 at 130 clicks I think. My slowest was a 16.88 so I was pretty consistent. My reaction times were .5s and .6s.

My question is.

What should I do to my wagon to really get her hopping without losing and preferrably gaining some reliability?

I already have a full 3" exhaust, rampod and an SAFCII my Profec B Spec II should be here next week. I should also have a front mount and a bigger transmission cooler by the next meet, also a carbon box for my rampod.

Is there anything else I should consider?

Id love to get the valve body upgrade installed. If I bought one could I install it myself?

Oh and would it be safe to have my car running 11psi for the whole run? Should I start at a lower setting and then switch it up?

I think thats all I wanted to know.

Any help would be fantastic.

Thanks guys.

Zane.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69809-dragin-the-wagon/
Share on other sites

My 10 cents (race meeting this weekend, have to move it)

I have been using 10 psi for quite a while now, I can get 7 psi at max stall on the standard torque converter (around 2,300 rpm) holding it against the hand brake and the foot brake. I don't worry about reaction times, it has no effect on your ET.

Note that I have zero mechanical mods, just the IEBC and the DFA. The exhaust and intercooler upgrades will make a big difference.

How were you launching yours?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69809-dragin-the-wagon/#findComment-1291134
Share on other sites

Went to Adelaide International Raceway last night and did two passes. I managed a 15.2 and then a 15.0 at 91.3 mph. On my second run I went up against a Subaru Legacy GT with similar mods to mine, (full 3" exhaust, R34 GTR intercooler, 10psi, exh. cam gear, air filter, s-afc II). He ran a 15.5 but still won due to a much better reaction time.

It was all a bit of a learning experience for me, so I'm hoping that with some practice, a little weight reduction and a slightly better tune, a high 14 will be achievable.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69809-dragin-the-wagon/#findComment-1303946
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
    • Alright I understand. The most likely case is probably gonna be that I just keep the OEM unit in the car as long as it works.
×
×
  • Create New...