Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 159
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Darren we paid $150 for our headgasket.

Be sure to follow the manufactures install instructions. :cheers:

They make them to suit the RB26 (same as RB30) and also the R33 RB25DET with its VCT.

The RB26 headgasket is a little more expensive than the RB25DET gasket.

You can use the RB25DET gasket on the RB30DET with no drama's.

Darren we paid $150 for our headgasket.

Be sure to follow the manufactures install instructions. :cheers:

They make them to suit the RB26 (same as RB30) and also the R33 RB25DET with its VCT.

The RB26 headgasket is a little more expensive than the RB25DET gasket.

You can use the RB25DET gasket on the RB30DET with no drama's.

I thought it was $150, but didnt want to quote it just incase i got it wrong...but there you go :rant: I thought Andrew (our machinist) told me it was the rb25 gasket he used as well.

Well i heard stock internals on an RB20 wit the right tuning etc can handle 18+psi, but i wouldnt go past 15psi on an rb25 due to the higher compression levels! Even though its only 2psi more should give you a shitload more power as you'd get closer to the turbos efficent power range im guessing.

just had the head pulled of my rb25,and there is nothing wrong with the stock nissan headgasket, but my engine has engested a small piece of metal!! probably left over from the dodgy welding done on the inside of my custom 4inch air take. motor needs a rebuild. so running 20psi bost wasnt what killed my engine it was foreign material.

you didnt check it before putting it on?

i'd check for dmg on the turb too, would be if its from before a turbo.

oh btw, ran up 369rwkw @ MAS yesterday.

will get my dyno sheet and more details when i have some time/scanner & someone to host it lol.

how much did it cost to rebuild your engine r31 nismoid? whats been done? who rebuilt it?

around the 7k mark, motor in and out included.

GTR Rods, Forged pistons, tuned etc etc.

Done by Ben @ Race Pace Motorsport, i wouldnt take my car anywhere else :(

you didnt check it before putting it on?

i'd check for dmg on the turb too, would be if its from before a turbo.

oh btw, ran up 369rwkw @ MAS yesterday.  

will get my dyno sheet and more details when i have some time/scanner & someone to host it lol.

What fuel and psi was that with?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...