Jump to content
SAU Community

duty cycle defined


Recommended Posts

What does duty cycle actually mean.  

If I am running at 2000rpm at 40% then that would be twice as rich as 4000rpm at 40% because the injector would be twice as long at 2000rpm when compared with 4000rpm.  Or does the computer allow for this?

RPM is irrelevant, 40% means it is open for 40% of the time, that can be 40% of 1 second, 40% of 1 minute, or 40% of one hour.:rofl:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So realistically for a given manifold pressure it should read

1000 rpm 20%  

2000 rpm 25%

3000 rpm 35%

4000 rpm 45% etc

Is that correct?

Sorta. On a fuel map, rpm is one axis and load is the other axis. So you can have a lower duration at 3,000 rpm than at 2,000 rpm, if the load is lower. On a Skyline the load sensor is the AFM, manifold pressure is irrelevant. If it has no AFM, it is usually mapped for rpm against throttle position, again manifold pressure is sometimes irrelevant.

:rofl:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, I was thinking other things being equal (IE load) Mine runs from RPM and MAP (I don't have an AFM. TPS is only used for extra enrichment which mine is set at 50% throttle.

So my car is probably running ridiculously rich down low and dangerously lean up top. Thanks for sorting that out for me.

I now need to find out what is a good duty cycle for varying loads and rpms for the RB20DET. Anyone that can help that would know would be very useful!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ideally you want to go to about a maximum of 80% or so, at maximum power/boost for your motor.

Its not a good idea to run injectors close to 99% all the time as they weren't really intended to be pushed that far, and could shortern their life considerbly.

Therfore when choosing injectors for a certain motor, you want them to be at a maximum of 80%. This will allow safety margin, if you need a bit more injector on time, maybe when its a cold night or such.

Another thing, if you get massive injectors that you only run up to say 40% at full power, it makes it very difficult for the tuner to control them as acurately.

In fact microcraps and other cheap ecu arent the best for massive injectors if outright accuracy is wanted in the tune at low loads and light throttle. Autronic and Motecs are much better at controlling very large injectors at low duty cycle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hang on, who's hijacking this thread!  

I also have a MASTER FUEL section.  WTF is that about?!

Moves all the fuel load points on the map up or down. It makes changing from say 370 cc injectors to to 750 cc injectors real quick, just subtract 50% on the master fuel correction. Then fine tune the load points that need it. Much quicker than punching in every individual load point.:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As no one can tell me what it is set at I am going to get the car retuned at rematch in Thomastown. I will then post every single value so that anyone that buys a Link ECU can just copy it and let the fun begin! Aren't I the charitable one?!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a LOT of stuff that can be done, it all depends on how much time and money you want to spend on doing in.  Not all ECUs will be able to do it, and the more control you need the more time and knowledge needs to be put into making it work.  If you're willing to spend the time and money and have the right hardware and skills involved there's a lot that can be done. 
    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
×
×
  • Create New...