Jump to content
SAU Community

EOI: Boost to 10PSI for R33 $10

benl1981
 Share

Recommended Posts

benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok I have copper ones now. I am currently testing on other skylines.

I think it is safer if using the stock intercooler to run 9-9.5psi which is what the latest ones have been made to.

Please note these are mostly for stock cars. Please check you have the solenoid shown below otherwise this piece will not work.

If you want more boost you can easily drill out the provided piece (You will only need to take a 0.2mm bigger drill bit to make about 1-2psi increase). But it is better to run 9-9.5psi.

Ok You will get instructions I put together with illustrations on how to fit this piece and how to fit a boost gauge. And you wiill get the copper piece for $15 delivered.

Sorry about the price increase but I have broken a lot of small drill bits etc

I do have a few different size drill bits so you can let me know what boost you want to run but it will vary up to 1psi between cars so I want to really be a bit cautious and let you drill it out if you want more boost. The drill bits are only about $2 and you shouldn't break it as you will only be widening the hole a small amount

standardsolenoidsmall6wr.jpg

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

ApacheX Proficient

ApacheX

Posted
Posted
Ok I have copper ones now.  I am currently testing on other skylines.  

I think it is safer if using the stock intercooler to run 9-9.5psi which is what the latest ones have been made to.  

Please note these are mostly for stock cars.  Please check you have the solenoid shown below otherwise this piece will not work.

If you want more boost you can easily drill out the provided piece (You will only need to take a 0.2mm bigger drill bit to make about 1-2psi increase).   But it is better to run 9-9.5psi.

Ok You will get instructions I put together with illustrations on how to fit this piece and how to fit a boost gauge.  And you wiill get the copper piece for $15 delivered.

Sorry about the price increase but I have broken a lot of small drill bits etc

I do have a few different size drill bits so you can let me know what boost you want to run but it will vary up to 1psi between cars so I want to really be a bit cautious and let you drill it out if you want more boost.  The drill bits are only about $2 and you shouldn't break it as you will only be widening the hole a small amount

standardsolenoidsmall6wr.jpg

like this? (on right hand side)

image026.jpg

benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I do. I'll be making some more over the next few days.

Most people are happy with 9-9.5psi. Not much gain on stock cooler over this.

I can kind of tailor it to what you want slightly, but there will be a bit of variation between skylines (up to 0.5psi). All the R33s tested on have had a stock intercooler, but I guess front mount shouldn't change things too much, maybe will run slightly higher boost.

I don't recommend over 9-9.5psi on the stock exhaust either.

benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Pm replied. Sorry, I will get to everyone over the next few days. I've been busy at work etc. I will make up some more over the next few days.

Due to the amount of drill bits I've broken etc and the time involved the cost will be $20 including instructions on how to fit it (and how to fit aftermarket boost gauge), the piece, and clamps.

I think it is still reasonable value as it shouldn't need adjusting (you can widen the hole easily with a drill if you want slightly more boost), looks stock, and allows you to return to stock in a minute. You also don't even need to disconnect any hoses except off the solenoid. You also don't wreck your solenoid by putting a constant earth to it (which I had before), down the track I may use it for an electronic boost control so I don't want to fry it.

TommO Grand Master

TommO

Posted
Posted

I'd like to recommend benl1981 for being a great seller. Organised delivery of the product very fast, printed out the instructions for me in colour, and went the extra mile compared to what most sellers do.

Great, cheap product, with a decent performance gain.

Thanks again,

Tommo.

TommO Grand Master

TommO

Posted
Posted
ey, on the Ebay.com link you say the stock R33 run 4PSI under 4500RPM, is that right? i tought they run 7PSI, or is 7psi @7000rpm? correct me if im wrong.

: Refer to this SAU tech thread

I'm sure you can feel the power increase at 4500rpm.

Cheers,

Tommo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Touché. I had not noticed it was an NA. 
    • bcozican
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By bcozican · Posted

      it takes so long to get things done but ... they are nearly there and we hitting the track soon again  So - at Perth Festival of Speed the car unfortunately had a decent off, wasnt me driving, wasnt the person drivings fault. Long story short car got sent very fast towards the wall without the control on throttle from the driver input and a disaster was averted but there was damage that needed to be fixed - carbon busted and alot of bent bits The splitter got munched and had to go back to get fixed - took a bit to get it there, fixed and back but got a surprise package when a new double element higher DF splitter came back - nice surprise !  and first person to have one     At a car show I took the car too some punks stole one of my carbon indicator blanks and stomped on the other so had to get a new set of headlight / indicator combo from tops stage so got front fender vents as well to put in the order     While all this was happening the new MCA golds turned up and did some fiddling around with those   Put in the flappy paddle system and clutch lockout wiring/ system   We have also put shorter gearing in top top it out at 300 kmph in 6th gear  where previously I held 5th to 282 at SMP and 277 in Perth   Looking for better control and faster acceleration     I wasnt intending on doing pedal box I was managing with the brake master replacement system I had going on and adjusted std pedals but on applying the clutch switch to the old system we found the *insert technical word here * bar that goes from the pedal to the master was bent about 40 deg and about to snap = lucky find otherwise be a bad bad time - discussion was had about getting a custom bar built to withstand the load but in reality it was time      making any suspension, wheel or anything adjustments to date has been a nightmare - aero off, adjust, check and repeat - time consuming and hard - short of going full airjack system we fashioned some external manual car lifts this will make life a million times easier     All the bent framing, some intercooler pipes and other has been fixed and replaced and after 6 months I finally have the car back at home in my control so its get to work on it, set ride heights, wheel align and will start track testing again soon   So ultimately other than a few flashy bits nothing actually looks likes its been done but in reality alot has. Typical   We'll see how all this goes        
    • Duncan
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By Duncan · Posted

      I'm far from an expert, but for sticking bits of metal together occasionally I got a MIG, the biggest one I could get with a 10a plug (because while I have some 15a GPOs around, they are not everywhere).  Also, because I get through SFA, I just buy the small disposable gas bottles at Bunnings, I'm not opening a BOC account to get through 1/10th of a full size bottle each year
    • WMDC35
      SR20 to cefiro

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      FWD is different though.
    • MBS206
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ignore the BOV / recirc valve question. You have an NA and shouldn't have one. If there magically is one though... It should be removed, though it shouldn't really effect it in the way one will for a turbo motor with it venting to atmosphere while running an afm.
×
×
  • Create New...