Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

am contemplating the tiltled setup for improved braking and front end grip without breaking the bank cause my rears dont last that long anyway. Is this a reciped for snappy or excessive oversteer? Will it be imbalanced or if driven with the setup in mind should be ok?

ideas apprec

PS 180sx RB20DET infrequent track work and understand front wet grip may be reduced

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70048-semi-slick-fronts-street-rears/
Share on other sites

Rears wearing too fast usually indicates poor suspension alignment and/or excessive rear spring rates and inappropriate damper rates. If you fix those problems and use better rear tyres, you won't loose as much traction and wear the tyres out so fast. Plus you will go faster of course.:rofl:

Rears wearing too fast usually indicates poor suspension alignment and/or excessive rear spring rates and inappropriate damper rates.  If you fix those problems and use better rear tyres, you won't loose as much traction and wear the tyres out so fast.  Plus you will go faster of course.:rofl:

Ahh, but you forget about skids and the like :P

I have driven with some really good street tyres on the front and really bad ones on the back which is nearly comparable.

It's pretty much as you would expect. You have no front end issues, barely even think about it because you are perpetually concerned about your rear end stepping out, as it does again and again.

You can only then drive as fast out of a corner as your rear tyres will allow; ie reduced speed due to wheelspin.

Under heavy brakes again the back end steps out but the situation is not as bad comparatively speaking.

High speed corners I found fairly intimidating. Not comfortable.

cheers guys interesting, my rears wearing is as much due to my occassional penchant for improving power slides turning into drifts :kick: and i guess that if I am really pushing and wearing my fronts it means I am going around corners far too quickly to be legal on the road.

Having said that I am interested in reducing rear wear so ideas apprec (cheers SK), have cusco coil overs all round. Maybe these combined with the odd 185 tyre i lob on is the problem!

And AB good point about high speed corner entry, good example is the right hander at the end of the straight at Wakefield - dam thing almost went sideways on a down change at 160km/hr, dont suppose the grip differential would improve that at all! maybe wider street rears

I wish my rear tyres would lose grip so I could learn some oversteer manouvers :) Even after 3 trackdays (~150+ laps), 30 drag runs and 40,000km on the road I still get no oversteer (the car is more likely to push than anything - on the track).

SK: I'm sure you have mentioned it somewhere but I have no idea which thread, what are correct spring/damper rates etc for a stockish (power) R33 GTS-t for circuit/drag work (50/50) which I know isn't ideal but hell im not out to crack a 10sec pass or 2mins around bathurst.

im talking about pure drift use. my rears have held up well so far. due to the camber on the rears, makes it easier to break traction as there isnt large contact patch, and also when the insides wear out, i get the tyres swapped over so the outsides are worn, the insides are brand new.

benm, what sort of tyres are you using?? my stockish 33 has no trouble lighting the rears, thats with 255/35 pirelli p7000s.

cheers

Linton

Michelin Preceda 225/50/16.

I was talking to a mate last saturday night and from memory he has 255's and says he has no issues frying those either (with a fair bit less power too).

Maybe my engine is forgetting to produce (nm) and only producing (kw) :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
×
×
  • Create New...