Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Joe - thanks for the link.

Gradenko - budget, not sure yet? Care to throw some figures at me? Was thinking of keeping the same head/intake/exhaust/turbo setup if I can.

Boost - I'm aware of the time factor and for that reason (and cause I'm lazy) might end up getting a workshop to do it. Rattling - nowhere near that yet, just drinking the odd bit of oil at the moment. Not a huge thing as I'm hardly driving it.

Just wanting to actually see what one goes like.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70086-rb2530/#findComment-1294910
Share on other sites

Gradenko - budget, not sure yet? Care to throw some figures at me? Was thinking of keeping the same head/intake/exhaust/turbo setup if I can.

$5k minimum for a basic rebuild. $7kish using forged pistons, arp bolted bottem end and standard rods shot peened. + extra for head porting, ecu, manifold, plenum, turbo, fueling, etc. But you already know that :P

Just wanting to actually see what one goes like.

Let you know in a month or so.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70086-rb2530/#findComment-1294930
Share on other sites

$5k min? Hmm. A bit more than what I was thinking - not too much more, but a bit. Is that using a new block? Do you mind PMing me the price breakdown if you have it?

:P Cam

That doesn't include the price of the new block but it does include the price of a 2nd hand block (which i needed for the crank and rods).

I'll pm you details when I get home. Good luck with whatever you choose.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70086-rb2530/#findComment-1295216
Share on other sites

teejay - would like to see the results. Are they on this forum?

Steve - long time no chat. Hope all is well. Who/where is the combo available from?

R31 - looks like a mint car, but wouldn't be able to get enough for mine to buy it.

Whole thing is at inquiry stage at this point - hence me wanting to have a chat to some people with experience in it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70086-rb2530/#findComment-1296164
Share on other sites

when u come to your budget, double it and add abit more, thats how modified cars work, hahah. i know some one who just got a motor built with pistons and gtr rods, and studs, pm me if u want to know more.

Another thing, is becareful who does the work on your car. i strongly advise to use one of the 2 workshops. A) Hyperdrive B) Xspeed. they are the most suited to the job if you ask me,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70086-rb2530/#findComment-1296317
Share on other sites

Has anyone in Perth built a RB25/30 or had one built for them? Is there anyone running one in an R33 at the moment who could take me out for a ride? I have suspected broken ring lands and am wanting to look at options outside of the norm.

Cam, give hyperdrive a call, i remember talking to ken and he was telling me how they were going to built this as i type of demo car when hyperdrive 1st started dont know if it happened or not

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70086-rb2530/#findComment-1296324
Share on other sites

different strokes for different folks

i personally didnt think the non revving nature of a rb30 would be any fun

but i was wrong, and its become a more and more popular idea... got to be some reasoning in that.

your on boost so much earlier then any other rb combo

ive been in a gtr with twin 2530's and its not even close boost response wise

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70086-rb2530/#findComment-1297141
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...