Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey gent's today i got a compresstion test to bring my worst dreams to life.

First 3 cyclinders are at 125psi last 3 at 160psi.

So its time for a rebuild and yes when we did a wet and dry test. The cyclinder pressure did rise back to 160.

My question is how much should i expect to pay for a normal rebuild nothing fansy.

Just new pistions, rings maybe rods bearings all the usual stuff. I just want something stronger then standard. that will get me low 11's it already did a 12.1 standard, i do have n1's on it now with power fc zorst cooler and all the goodies.

Pritty much just want a engine stronger then standard with out the bill of a race car.

Can it be done for around 5g (bottem end)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/
Share on other sites

I guess you can build the motor to spool that T04Z now :P

This topic has been covered numberous time if you do a search, basically once you take into account the parts, machining and assembly you will be looking in excess of $5K quite easy, to which degree depends on what parts you will be using. Even with a budget build with just new pistons, bearings, gaskets if you are to do it properly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1295338
Share on other sites

just had my RB26 rebuilt by John Hill performance engineering, ported the head, new cams, timing gears, forged pistons, shot peened rods rebuilt water & oil pump, fully ballanced. modified sump, 650hp engine and he has a great reputation for his work charged me $7200

$5000 not too far off.

WORD of advice go to someone with a good Rep, there are too many 20yr old experts out there!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1298153
Share on other sites

just had my RB26 rebuilt by John Hill performance engineering, ported the head, new cams, timing gears, forged pistons, shot peened rods rebuilt water & oil pump, fully ballanced. modified sump, 650hp engine and he has a great reputation for his work charged me $7200  

$5000 not too far off.

WORD of advice go to someone with a good Rep, there are too many 20yr old experts out there!!!

DO you have that guys number please

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1299670
Share on other sites

just had my RB26 rebuilt by John Hill performance engineering, ported the head, new cams, timing gears, forged pistons, shot peened rods rebuilt water & oil pump, fully ballanced. modified sump, 650hp engine and he has a great reputation for his work charged me $7200  

$5000 not too far off.

WORD of advice go to someone with a good Rep, there are too many 20yr old experts out there!!!

Dam this is a good price having smillair build but with rods for twice the cost. was this a drive in drive out price

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1299764
Share on other sites

I went around a fair few repair shops for some repair prices, like a few my RB26 spun a bearing approx 2 months after purchase, (direct from Japan)

After some recearch i found out that a few shops were contracting out their rebuilds to JHH I found him great to bounce ideas off, eg N1 oil & Water pumps sump baffells and turbo setups. My main goal was 500rwhp BULLETPROOF, daily driven,

The total cost for engine in&out will be approx $8000, "Race clutch" from Jim berry $900.

with fuel pump,injector,intercooler,computer,oilcooler&remote mount, diff oilcooler,gearbox oilcooler to follow after initial bedding in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1299905
Share on other sites

Thanks guys and yes now i got my loan of 10k so all i need to do is find some one who is gonna build me what i want at a decent price, second thing is my gearbox needs a rebuild to syncros are gone is there such thing as heavy duties for gtr boxs.

Oh oh oh i almost forgot how much power could i make with 34n1's or would it be better to go hks 2540's i dont want a big single how much boost should i run shoul di get a thiker head gasket.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1299915
Share on other sites

R34 N1 rated at 320hp ea.

Since you are in brisbane have a talk to mike vine turbochargers, (capalaba) been around turbos for a ages, maybe a little pricey but his turbo selection is second to none,

I went for a pair of his Gibson Motorsport spec T28, AWSOME!!!!

HKS head gasket good around $350. bit pricey!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1299954
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...