Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey gent's today i got a compresstion test to bring my worst dreams to life.

First 3 cyclinders are at 125psi last 3 at 160psi.

So its time for a rebuild and yes when we did a wet and dry test. The cyclinder pressure did rise back to 160.

My question is how much should i expect to pay for a normal rebuild nothing fansy.

Just new pistions, rings maybe rods bearings all the usual stuff. I just want something stronger then standard. that will get me low 11's it already did a 12.1 standard, i do have n1's on it now with power fc zorst cooler and all the goodies.

Pritty much just want a engine stronger then standard with out the bill of a race car.

Can it be done for around 5g (bottem end)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/
Share on other sites

I guess you can build the motor to spool that T04Z now :P

This topic has been covered numberous time if you do a search, basically once you take into account the parts, machining and assembly you will be looking in excess of $5K quite easy, to which degree depends on what parts you will be using. Even with a budget build with just new pistons, bearings, gaskets if you are to do it properly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1295338
Share on other sites

just had my RB26 rebuilt by John Hill performance engineering, ported the head, new cams, timing gears, forged pistons, shot peened rods rebuilt water & oil pump, fully ballanced. modified sump, 650hp engine and he has a great reputation for his work charged me $7200

$5000 not too far off.

WORD of advice go to someone with a good Rep, there are too many 20yr old experts out there!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1298153
Share on other sites

just had my RB26 rebuilt by John Hill performance engineering, ported the head, new cams, timing gears, forged pistons, shot peened rods rebuilt water & oil pump, fully ballanced. modified sump, 650hp engine and he has a great reputation for his work charged me $7200  

$5000 not too far off.

WORD of advice go to someone with a good Rep, there are too many 20yr old experts out there!!!

DO you have that guys number please

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1299670
Share on other sites

just had my RB26 rebuilt by John Hill performance engineering, ported the head, new cams, timing gears, forged pistons, shot peened rods rebuilt water & oil pump, fully ballanced. modified sump, 650hp engine and he has a great reputation for his work charged me $7200  

$5000 not too far off.

WORD of advice go to someone with a good Rep, there are too many 20yr old experts out there!!!

Dam this is a good price having smillair build but with rods for twice the cost. was this a drive in drive out price

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1299764
Share on other sites

I went around a fair few repair shops for some repair prices, like a few my RB26 spun a bearing approx 2 months after purchase, (direct from Japan)

After some recearch i found out that a few shops were contracting out their rebuilds to JHH I found him great to bounce ideas off, eg N1 oil & Water pumps sump baffells and turbo setups. My main goal was 500rwhp BULLETPROOF, daily driven,

The total cost for engine in&out will be approx $8000, "Race clutch" from Jim berry $900.

with fuel pump,injector,intercooler,computer,oilcooler&remote mount, diff oilcooler,gearbox oilcooler to follow after initial bedding in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1299905
Share on other sites

Thanks guys and yes now i got my loan of 10k so all i need to do is find some one who is gonna build me what i want at a decent price, second thing is my gearbox needs a rebuild to syncros are gone is there such thing as heavy duties for gtr boxs.

Oh oh oh i almost forgot how much power could i make with 34n1's or would it be better to go hks 2540's i dont want a big single how much boost should i run shoul di get a thiker head gasket.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1299915
Share on other sites

R34 N1 rated at 320hp ea.

Since you are in brisbane have a talk to mike vine turbochargers, (capalaba) been around turbos for a ages, maybe a little pricey but his turbo selection is second to none,

I went for a pair of his Gibson Motorsport spec T28, AWSOME!!!!

HKS head gasket good around $350. bit pricey!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70110-gtr-rebuild-time/#findComment-1299954
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
    • I just finished up a manual swap and I have a 1999 S2 AWD automatic in my garage, depending on where you are located. I'm in the the midwest of the US.
    • I’ve heard it can be done, you need to redrill the holes where they bolt to the chassis and apart from that they are the same. I’ve never done it or know anyone personally that has, it’s just something I’ve heard 
    • If it's reading full rich prior to a misfire that gives one directional hint, if it's already reading lean, etc. If it's reading pretty cleanly stoichiometric then suddenly drops out from a misfire that suggests it's not air mass estimation that's the problem. Could be ignition, could be something more subtle. Could be the CAS has decided to start dropping out at random or the drive pin is worn leading to excessive lash and trigger errors. LTFT can tell you the same but it's slower to react and if this is a recent issue it might not have stabilized. STFT stuck in one direction vs fluctuating back and forth can be used instead but I like to read O2 voltages anyways and interpret directly. If the O2 voltages make no sense in general or are super slow to react it could also be a failing O2 sensor. There's no real error correction for failing O2 sensors in these cars.
×
×
  • Create New...