Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I currently have Tein Springs and struts and im putting some stock struts and springs for some 1/4 action. Now ive taken the Teins out many a time which is easy, but these stock struts are about 2 inches higher when sitting side by side. Now i have no hope in streaching these back into place. Also, pushing down on the struts when out of the car, i can hardly budge the stockies (even with my 110kg weight) but i can press on the Teins alot easier. Do i have to compress them to fit back onto the car?? I shouldnt see why i have too and why would they be so hard, are they seized or something?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70159-help-inserting-stock-struts/
Share on other sites

If you have complete strutts you don't have to compress them .

You have to push the lower arms down though , the fronts are little harder , just get someone to put their weight on them .

Suport the car on good stands first .

its not that hard, i did it on the weekend with a friend (changed coilovers to springs/shocks)

while my friend was ready to slide the strut on, i stood on the hub while holding onto the bootlid and could get it down easy (i weigh 84 so u should be able to easy)

Robo's - it is much easier when the car is on a hoist as the problem you're having is the swaybars trying to keep the wheels flat.

Remember that one wheel (the one not jacked up) is causing torsion in the sway bar and trying to lift the jacked up wheel to minimise roll...

When the car is on a hoist, both wheels sag at the same height, no torsion effect on swaybars, therefore arms hang at their fully extended natural sag ;)

...at least that's what I thought, and considering that I've taken my suspension out and replaced it a number of times that's what I've experienced

:rofl:

  siksII said:
its not that hard, i did it on the weekend with a friend (changed coilovers to springs/shocks)  

while my friend was ready to slide the strut on, i stood on the hub while holding onto the bootlid and could get it down easy (i weigh 84 so u should be able to easy)

Sorry, i didnt think of standing on the hub, silly me, but i was trying to do it by myself. Well i eventually got it in, i jacked up the strut and knocked it into place. One problem, it looks like a 4WD now, time to give them a hair cut.

I cant beleive the weight difference between the Teins and the stockies, must be good for another .01 . ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey to anyone that reads this, long time lurker first time posting, sorry if it’s been answered before but I’ve been looking for nearly a year now for answers. ive got a 25det neo in an r32 that works awesome when it works (made 500whp on 21psi) but works 45% of the time, 1st issue there’s a harness that runs under the passengers side front fender that my tire keeps rubbing through and one wire seems to power the fuel pump even though I’ve done the relay “mod” some people like to call it, and when it does rub through it kills the car, yes next time I’m with the car I want to take the fender off and try tuck the harness well out of the way but I’d also like to try and by pass this mysterious wire as well lol, also wouldn’t mind getting power from the alternator as I’ve read it supplies the pump with 13v ? But no idea where to run the power wire too. 2nd issue, when replacing my fuel pump and fuel hanger I managed to break the factory fuel level sender leaving me with no fuel gauge, I’d like to buy the fpg fuel level sender for r32/s13 but the plug it comes with confuses me, I’ve got a detschwerks x1 fuel hanger which has light + pump - level + pump + and a ground, I’m no auto sparky but I’m wondering if I can cut the plug off the fuel level sender and wire the negative to the pump negative and wire the positive to the level positive to get a fuel gauge back ?🥴 3rd and final issue, the reason I want a fuel gauge is because whenever it’s below half a tank, it fuel starves like crazy and runs like a bag of shit even without doing a pull or sloshing the fuel round in the tank, I’d also like to fix this but have no idea what’s causing it, I’ve got a dw420 and a dead head fuel setup meaning the fuel is regulated before it gets to the engine, my only theory is that the return line is to close to the pickup on the pump and when it’s at half a tank the return line is causing the pump to cavitate enough to cause fuel pressure issues, that or the pump isn’t low enough in the tank which I would find strange considering I can’t find a single thing online about it, also if ya wondering how I figured out it happens at half a tank without a fuel gauge, I waited until it started happening and went and filled up and the car took exactly 30 litres every time I tested it, if ya managed to read through this mess I appreciate that and any recommendations , cheers
    • ChatGPT is trash and lies about things I would not expect it to lie about considering many things it's wrong about are very easily verified with google. The S3 R33 GTR shares its steering wheel with R33 GTSTs of the same production year. Part number is 48430-26U17. I'm guessing you have to get it from a car that came with HICAS though, the ER33 is 48430-26U18, but the HR33 diagrams note that part number is still leather vs 48430-26U13 which is not leather-wrapped. They all use the same airbags, so if you need another one you can get it off basically any same year R33 or Stagea.
    • I'm going to run hard lines front to back in the future. That should help dissipate a bit more heat. If not, a fuel cooler might be next 
    • No. The mark is with respect to the cam rotation. None of those things have altered it. When stationary, the cam position stays in sync with the crank position. It doesn't matter if you moved the head 4 feet up. Hence, that mark needs to stay exactly where it is.  
    • Toasty! I was around the same. Around 50 but with a fuel cooler. Got my tuner to dial down the pumps and its so much better.. i think last time I drove it was around 35-40 during summer. PWM makes a huge diff. I have the 1 PWM controller running my feeds.
×
×
  • Create New...