Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i talk from PERSONAL experience here

gcg hi flow running 13psi

turbo back 3" (std cat)

550cc injectors

500 hp fuel pump

fmic

hks pod in cold air box

power fc

and DAMN GOOD tuner to get it all working nicely

270.3 RWkw

so yes, it is possible and have the dyno charts to proove it.

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i talk from PERSONAL experience here

gcg hi flow running 13psi

turbo back 3" (std cat)

550cc injectors

500 hp fuel pump

fmic

hks pod in cold air box

power fc

and DAMN GOOD tuner to get it all working nicely

270.3 RWkw

so yes, it is possible

13 psi?

I will be putting a RB25 S2 highflow on my RB31.

Geting it done with a 360 deg thrust bearing so it will stand the test of time. Hope to run 8 -10 psi for daily driving and 16-18 psi for when I want to give it a bit.

I have a Sard Trigger ebc and don't need to be running insane boost levels around town or when driving to work.

Should spool up nice and quick as well. At the moment I start to make boost at 1400-1600 rpm. Full boost by 2000-2200rpm. The extra .6L makes a big difference

I'm hoping for about 240-250ish Rwkw from it. But I do have the extra support systems in place as well for this.

I think the difference in responces from workshops comes from what a hi-flowed turbo is. Anyone can take your turbo and give it back as a Hi-flow, but from what I have seen GCG are the only ones that reliably deliver the goods.

I went through this process at the start of the year, and dont regret the GCG turbo. Additional benifits include the stock look - so no real problems with the police, the price (pm me) and the ease of instalation, and response.

whats your knock readings like? im having quite a few problems

they only reason you'd be getting knocking is due to your tuner.

it wont come down too anything else as you have all the right other bits.

should only take a tuner maybe 3 shots too get it right, sometimes there is the tiniest of adjustment required. I've had min tinked twice and its fine now, only takes a few mins :)

Hmm is their a physical different in flanges or anything between the RB25 series 1 and series 2?

And are these babys ball bearing? if not does a hi-flow include that?

I could be wrong but ball bearing is better for some reason yeah??

Andddd does the GCG hi-flow include a balancing of all components?

If anyone knows....

GCG ballance and machine all components.

They have 2 options - with ball bearings (a bit more expensive) or with a bush (a bit cheaper) The ball bearing unit should spool up quicker (but dont ask me how much quicker) I just spent the bit extra so I wouldnt regret it later. (Do it once, and do it right)

I am 99.9% sure all r33s use the same T3 flange, so there is no problem with swapping them.

Most appreciated 4door_Sleeper.

Some of you were mentioning how workshops don't really have many good things to say about the standard hi-flow's.

I spoke to a workshop last week to see what they reckon... The standard hi-flow includes bigger turbine/compressor wheels, however the turbo housing stays the same.

Their point being that you'd be pushing more air into the turbo but with the standard small housing the air wouldn't be able to flow that much quicker.

They also said for the price of a hi-flow you could buy a second hand HKS something rather (forget the numbers they gave me) but that would pull an easy 260rwkw on lowish boost, however then I thought to myself you'd probably need new dump pipe and flanges and a few extras which would build up the price.

Damn its a tough decision =

Most appreciated 4door_Sleeper.

Some of you were mentioning how workshops don't really have many good things to say about the standard hi-flow's.

I spoke to a workshop last week to see what they reckon... The standard hi-flow includes bigger turbine/compressor wheels, however the turbo housing stays the same.

Their point being that you'd be pushing more air into the turbo but with the standard small housing the air wouldn't be able to flow that much quicker.

They also said for the price of a hi-flow you could buy a second hand HKS something rather (forget the numbers they gave me) but that would pull an easy 260rwkw on lowish boost, however then I thought to myself you'd probably need new dump pipe and flanges and a few extras which would build up the price.

Damn its a tough decision =

they are probably right with what they said there, but what you have to remember is that the stock rb25 turbo cant be boosted (safely) above 14psi. so isnt the point of having the steel wheels to be able to boost it higher, safely?

I've got an R34 GTT turbo sitting in my office. It's knackered, has a couple of bits missing from the exhuast wheel.

It's going to be high flowed at GCG.

Maybe I might put cams in before the turbo though.

I'd expect about 240 rwkw from and R34 at about 15-17 pounds.

SK is getting 265 with high flow and Tomei 270 cams.

That's what I'm going for.

BASS OUT

I've got an R34 GTT turbo sitting in my office.  It's knackered, has a couple of bits missing from the exhuast wheel.

It's going to be high flowed at GCG.

Maybe I might put cams in before the turbo though.

I'd expect about 240 rwkw from and R34 at about 15-17 pounds.

SK is getting 265 with high flow and Tomei 270 cams.

That's what I'm going for.

BASS OUT

I'd aim for that kind of power one day with the standard turbo.

Before getting the turbo hi-flowed I will probably get myself power FC and maybe Z32 and bigger fuel pump. Is there an advantage to having a large fuel pump inside the tank or a couple external in the boot with a surge tank, cos that looks pretty cool :headspin:

Any way I have attached a photo of the turbo which I purchased, can someone identify it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...