Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Im interested in getting an electronic boost controller

I went into AutoBarn and seen a brand called Gizmo

They were selling them for around $480.

Any know if their any good or crap.

Any suggestions on which electronic boost controller is recommended.

Nothing over $600.

Cheers ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70249-electronic-boost-controller/
Share on other sites

']you can get a Apexi AVCR, for brand new for $600,

Hey, well the greddy profec spec b ii does the same job

Apexi may have more features but i dont care for features

As long as its reliable and does the same job im happy,

I got a quote around $400 for the greddy boost controller

What do u think.?

Hey, well the greddy profec spec b ii does the same job

Apexi may have more features but i dont care for features

As long as its reliable and does the same job im happy,

I got a quote around $400 for the greddy boost controller

What do u think.?

apexi one is good but, it isnt good unless setup right. I have heard only hood things about the profec ebc, i own a profec A and it works wonderful, i belived spec b, is daul sol and is very good

Hey, well the greddy profec spec b ii does the same job

Apexi may have more features but i dont care for features

As long as its reliable and does the same job im happy,

I got a quote around $400 for the greddy boost controller

What do u think.?

If you just want someting cheap and reliable why not go for a BLEED VALVE

almost guaranteed never to break down...works without eletricity too :)

bleed valve is not exactly relibable. a cheap ebc will serve its purpose and be accurate. i got a 2nd hks evc for $250 and it works awesome, i had a problem with it last week but it was just loose wiring. does awesome boost control

for something that needs to be reliable in it's performance such as a boost controller, i think you're best to go for a well known unit.

the jaycar boost control is fine if you have the time and knowhow to set it up, but if you're like me and just want something that you can get fitted and basically have no worries with go for AVCR or SBC idIII.

both can be found for around 570-630 new.

get the profec , or you can get a blitz ssbc for about 400 also .

i got a second hand old blitz ssbc off the forums , here . it didnt work . luckily the guy gave me back most of my money , got a 2nd one of the same type and replaced the faulty control unit . so it cost about 200$ all up and ive got some spares just incase .

I generally email the instructions and pics to ppl, as I can't get the pic's up here (too large). Any ideas?

For anyone else interested, here are the photo's/instructions DAN00H was talking about.

Pics to be read in conjunction with word doc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...