Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Don't have a 32 GTR myself, but i figure make sure you get any car cheacked out before buying buying it. If all comes back ok, then your choice on purchace, but i would suggest getting a full service and definatlly a Dyno, as you wouldn't know when the last time it would have had one.

Went through the same issues before buting my 33 GTS wasn't sure what to get, bought my mates GTS and took it to get dyno and it has Power FC and it was all over the shop!!

If your debating the RWD/4WD issue, go the 4WD cos in the GTR's it only takes a relay switch in cab for changing as you please. :headspin:

Whichever way you decide to go I would reccommend doing a full inspection including compression and leak down test. Sure it costs more, but will save you money in the long run.

Make sure it is done by a reputable place too. We have plenty of good workshops here in Sydney, so don't skimp on finding the right car.

im not a gtr owner, so can someone explain to me, if i bought a r32 gtr (lets pressume it A1 condition)

and i leave it stock, apart from exhaust and suspension.

what added costs would i encouter that i wouldnt normally with my 32 gtst?

also the car wouldnt be used for trackdays etc....

leon look after it and it will look after you i have spent on maintenance but nothing mechanically out of the ordinary. Biggest problem iv had was the clutch but thats all behind me now nothing a twin plate didnt fix .

im not a gtr owner, so can someone explain to me, if i bought a r32 gtr (lets pressume it A1 condition)

and i leave it stock, apart from exhaust and suspension.

what added costs would i encouter that i wouldnt normally with my 32 gtst?

also the car wouldnt be used for trackdays etc....

rebuilding after blowing up 2 turbos instead of 1!

im trying to make the same decision here, except i got 3 car choices - r32/s2-r33 gtst + r32 gtr

duno which way i should go. i need something that will fit this: everyday car - roomy - quick - looks nice - not bad on fuel consumption - no more than $21k (gtr would be imported for less).

unfortunately you will not be able to get a decent GTR imported and ON ROAD for less than 21K any more. also, GTR is not very economical (2.6lt TT lugging around 1500kgs), not very roomy either, but I wouldn't have any other car. :)

GTR! i've got a R33 Gts25t Series 2 but after running my modified gts against a friends DEAD STOCK GTR i was so embrassed that i only managed to match his performance (for a straight line) and i'm running 1.3bar of boost (18.85psi!)

go the GTR! you'll never regret it!

R32 GTR's in good nick are ok but there aren't many of those around.

Unless you have the money for insurance and engine rebuild, stick with a GTS-T.

RB26 engines are race orientated motors that from Japan especially will need some reasonable work on them at around 120-140,000 km due to poor servicing, gone through a few hands and been thrashed by everyone.

A good , genuine low km, Jap import with proven history will cost you over 30K these days.

Having said that, we have a client with an Oz delivered one with 230,000km on the clock and the engine is fine ( stand up rev 210 ).:)

Cheers

Ken

i thought REV210 drove a GTs25t? pulling 13.4 and stock wif stock turbo and no fmic ..

must of been a while hehe.

:)

He sold it and bought a GTR. As usual the gyro gearloose has been trying the bang for your buck cheap mods.. :) :)

Cheers

Ken

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Me, I would happly spend some more coin on better tyres for my street car  Will they work, yes, of course, but why substitute some dry grip/braking distance, and wet weather grip/braking distance on what is really old tech to save some coin on your "precious" street car In the end it might not be you that farks up, it's the thousands of other idiots on the street that you need to worry about  For a street car that gets some "fun time", I have found that a quality tyre that can handle dry, wet, cold (Canberra gets pretty cold) and hot conditions, which may costs a little more, is great insurance  From my experience with them (driving around Goulburn in the winter) the RE003's are pretty poor in cold and/or wet conditions on the street If RS4's didn't hate gripping in the cold I would be running them always on the street,  great in the dry, OK in the wet, but, they do hate the cold, with a passion, I run PS5's year round now, basically, I've found the PS5 to be a great year round street tyre for all conditions, they last well, and are mid range pricing wise TL;DR. Tyre choice is probably like what brand and grade oil you should use, ask 10 people, and get 10 different answers... LOL
    • Extend the sensor out of the car, put it in a pot of oil, heat oil up. You'll get to 80-120 then 😛
    • Yeah - I tried throwing the formulas from ChatGPT and it tried it's best as it told me that the Formula in HPTuners as requested is a Linear function, but the original data I provided it (resistance to temp) is not linear and thus it kept trying to suggest formulas that would be more accurate in regions I actually want it to be accurate in. But I didn't quite understand it at the time. I have now thrown the data into graphs and can clearly see they're all different shapes. Given it's an oil temp sensor I probably want it to be most accurate between 80 and 120c - So I don't really see much alternative other than driving the hell out of the car and letting it cool down from 120C, noting the voltage on the sensor as it chills out. But at that point if I write it down, well, I'll be able to know this from the voltage. Would look pretty stupid on a datalog or a video showing me going down the straight at 0.265V Oil temp 
    • Yeah, it looks like it's being ran as a constant current setup is my guess. Get some more data points, reading the degrees C on the gauge, and what the voltage is you're seeing out of it. The sensor itself is not linear, even in smaller ranges of like 20 - 60 it's non linear. But if we can get some good plots, particularly at those 5volt steps, it will be very easy to work out, and then I can give you a logarithmic formula if its you need an actual formula. Also, very likely ChatGPT will lead you astray with some of this stuff, as it totally depends on how the circuit is built.
    • So to further complicate things or hopefully explain better: This is a VDO sensor. It clearly does this math inside the gauge itself... because it displays a temperature in C to me instead of a voltage. The signal wire to the gauge is in Volts, not Ohms. I have just teed into this and sent it to the ECU. ChatGPT spat this out: Temperature (°C) Thermistor Resistance (Ω) Voltage Output (V) -40 36563.56 4.973962698 -35 26284.63 4.963854097 -30 19149 4.950518086 -25 14127.68 4.933166097 -20 10504.68 4.910527969 -15 7721.35 4.879055954 -10 5720.88 4.838133512 -5 4284.03 4.786165799 0 3240.18 4.721119717 5 2473.6 4.640900563 10 1905.87 4.543692515 15 1486.65 4.429695182 20 1168.64 4.296344225 25 926.71 4.144091368 30 739.98 3.972492431 35 594.9 3.782907287 40 481.53 3.577860996 45 392.57 3.361217186 50 322.17 3.136573398 55 266.19 2.908608143 60 221.17 2.68039363 65 184.72 2.455599277 70 155.29 2.239608872 75 131.38 2.035132288 80 112.08 1.846579676 85 96.4 1.674774149 90 82.96 1.511882199 95 71.44 1.359001674 100 61.92 1.222169588 105 54.01 1.100403407 110 47.24 0.989775394 115 41.42 0.889528391 120 36.51 0.800974069 125 32.38 0.723478416 130 28.81 0.654148313 135 25.7 0.591893137 140 23 0.536380597 145 20.68 0.487551867 150 18.59 0.442640126 155 16.74 0.40213318 160 15.11 0.365841848 165 13.66 0.333073247 170 12.38 0.303758956 175 11.25 0.277572169 180 10.24 0.253917873
×
×
  • Create New...