Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had my 34 gt-t converted to manual and i now am in the market for an afm ecu but i'm not sure of what to get. I've been told to ask around for opinions on the contrasts between the power fc and the ems. Which do you think is better out of the two and which has more potential for future mods and tuning? I've been told to go EMS as there are alot of workshops that can tune it and as for the power fc there are not much out there who know how to fully tune the power fc to its full potential except maybe for Croydon (Sydney) but their rates are way to much for my pocket. And whats this about EMS not requiring an air flow metre where as the power fc does?

So which should i go for?

Thanks guys.

I have a EMS running my 25 and it goes really well the Air flow meter has been removed due to EMS running a map sensor. ad V+E rigoli tuned it not to long ago and it cost me only a pittance less then $300.

originally the car was running with the ems piggybacked into the standard comp now it is operating by itself

Who would you recommend in Sydney besides Croydon DAN00H? I've heard about HITMAN.....

there is someone that SK uses that is reputed to be very good.

I have not had positive feedback on Unique. One of my mates has a 300zx that he gets tunes at a place close to unique. I'll find out who it is.

the afm is no big deal and it will make sure you car idles well and runs well and has good response. removing the afm and chaging to map sensor and youll loose some of those niceness factors. the afm is the more accurate way to measure air input vs the map sensor. the power fc djetro lets you remove the afm and change to map sensor (if you insist on removing it) but for a rb25 id say stick with afm and just change to a bigger higher resolution one

ask some tuners what ecu they prefer. cars are capable of 1000hp+ with twin q45 afms so the age old argument i cant get over 500hp with airflow meters is not true. most people just think it wont make more power cos of the input size of the afm. the q45 is 90mm and rb25 is 80mm. the z32 is 80mm but has higher resolution so its a good upgrade for a mild rb25 maxing out its stocker 80mm afm. is the ems direct swap in? can you rip out stock ecu, put in ems and start the car and drive it around? how much is ems? how much to tune ems? is it closed loop and will it use feedback from the oxygen sensor?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...