Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mate of mine put an new turck turbo on a GSR, didnt boost in 1st, started to boost by about 7,000rpm in second and mate about 185awkw, which lasted for about 2 weeks before it blew.

He now has a turbo suited to the motor and goes about 10 times better...

i personally wouldnt go near a truck turbo...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70370-truck-turbo/#findComment-1300459
Share on other sites

rofl truck turbos don't work? Of course they do...there are plenty of people running TD06 on these forums.  In fact Roy has one on his rb20

Little bit different tho isnt that Duncan??? Im not trying to be smart either, I just thought his would have been as any of the TD range on cars would have been changed to suit cars not trucks, even if their orginal reason of life was for trucks.

Anyway I still say they are turbos for low RPM work, and need big mofo engines to get them to work how they were designed to. And after you have to get manifolds etc made up, its probably cheaper buying a 2nd hand bolt on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70370-truck-turbo/#findComment-1300464
Share on other sites

Little bit different tho isnt that Duncan???  Im not trying to be smart either, I just thought his would have been as any of the TD range on cars would have been changed to suit cars not trucks, even if their orginal reason of life was for trucks.

Anyway I still say they are turbos for low RPM work, and need big mofo engines to get them to work how they were designed to.  And after you have to get manifolds etc made up, its probably cheaper buying a 2nd hand bolt on.

yeah don't worry about me, I'm just being a smart arse :) There are plenty of good, cheap car turbos out there, I don't see why you would bother with one not designed for a car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70370-truck-turbo/#findComment-1300477
Share on other sites

Turbos are pretty much banded by CFM so if the volume of air going into an RB20 is XX amount to make the power you want and the velocity/volume of gas coming out is sufficiently matched to the turbo and the rev range you want power then it will work.

Now whether it will be laggy or give good response due to the construction is a different matter. Being off a truck it will probably need a large volume of flow to be happy, as truck engines tend to be large capacity long stroke slow revving things with the deisels have especially high compression ratios for compression ignition (no spark plugs). Also, being off a truck the rotating components may be of sturdy construction as response is not as important as longevity. May not be the case but something to think about.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70370-truck-turbo/#findComment-1300498
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
Truck turbos ule:thubsup:

I have a sneaking sus[icfion that a Cummins turbo will be too big...lol... sure would look tuff though:)

See HPI / Mart8in Donnon could only get 210rwks out of a TD06 on an RB20:(

And momentarily, until I looked at the time stamp, I thought "What alcohol soaked hour of the evening was this typed?" But it looks like he's just off to work LOL

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70370-truck-turbo/#findComment-1326597
Share on other sites

Truck turbos ule:thubsup:

I have a sneaking sus[icfion that a Cummins turbo will be too big...lol... sure would look tuff though:)

See HPI / Mart8in Donnon could only get 210rwks out of a TD06 on an RB20:(

yeah, but didn't the owner just want to stop at 200rwkw and not push it further for durability reasons?

so the boost was only 15psi just enough to get it into its efficiency range.

it doesn't say whether its a 10cm or 8cm housing like yours Roy?

:headspin:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70370-truck-turbo/#findComment-1326599
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
×
×
  • Create New...