Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so im planning my new install on my R32 GTS-t and just wanted the heads up on any trouble that anyone may of experincied in the past so i can plan ahead. Im planning on running a Pioneer 5750 HU with Pioneer components in the front doors replacing the stock speakers. I have another set of splits that im going to put into the rear parcell shelf. I have 2 MTX Thunders that i was thinking of using, can't decide if i want to run both in one box, 1 in a sealed box, 1 in a tube or two in the existing sub box, 2 in 1 tube or 2 in seprate tubes??? I plan on installing my new amp and hear that you either have to bypass the old amp or run new speaker cables, whatever is easiest i will do, but as im thinking of running the front splits of the head unit i dont see that as being a problem at all. Anyway just after anyones advice on the general install, how to and where to install and what you used for it in general?

Cheers GMB

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70445-r32-install/
Share on other sites

U cant get anything bigger than a 6" speakers in the fron doors. ( in there stock hole anyway)

A little hard getting wires throught the file wall. but not 2 hard, nothing a coat hanger cant fix.

That's about all i have to say about problems I had on my install.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70445-r32-install/#findComment-1301208
Share on other sites

as madtrang said the main problem is running cable throught the firewall, but its not that bad.

You'll need to make up some MDF mounting plates for the fronts. Just use the stock ones as a template.

I just ran new wires to all the speakers and bypassed the factory amp.

As for subs, it depends on how much boot space you can afford to lose. I need to fit a set of golf clubs in mine so I've got a small sealed box between the shock towers.

Head unit is pretty easy, just get the right wiring diagram off the net. I had to drill new mounting holes in the factory cradle to make my head unit sit flush with the a/c controls.

Let me know if you need any more help as I just finished my install last weekend.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70445-r32-install/#findComment-1301366
Share on other sites

U cant get anything bigger than a 6" speakers in the fron doors. ( in there stock hole anyway)

A little hard getting wires throught the file wall. but not 2 hard, nothing a coat hanger cant fix.

That's about all i have to say about problems I had on my install.

No prob's with getting cables through the fire wall, im used to doing the impossible, apprentice sparky by trade :headspin:

As for not getting anything bigger than 6" in the fronts isn't exactly right as we got a pair of 6X9's in my mates R32 no probs, but yes it did take modification of the existing speaker holes, nothing to drastic though. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70445-r32-install/#findComment-1302061
Share on other sites

as madtrang said the main problem is running cable throught the firewall, but its not that bad.

You'll need to make up some MDF mounting plates for the fronts. Just use the stock ones as a template.

I just ran new wires to all the speakers and bypassed the factory amp.

As for subs, it depends on how much boot space you can afford to lose. I need to fit a set of golf clubs in mine so I've got a small sealed box between the shock towers.

Head unit is pretty easy, just get the right wiring diagram off the net. I had to drill new mounting holes in the factory cradle to make my head unit sit flush with the a/c controls.

Let me know if you need any more help as I just finished my install last weekend.

Where abouts you find the wiring diagram for the install and do you have a diagram for the amp bypass at all?

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70445-r32-install/#findComment-1303788
Share on other sites

Hmmm ive got 6 1/5" splits in my front doors, and they fit pretty good..

Wiring diagram? What for... Multi meter finds waht you need..

If you can avoid running the front splits off the head unit and amp them do that, becuase if your gonna have the subs in there, you want the power to your speakers to keep up with the bass. If anything, dont amp the rears, as they are just for fill.

Ive Installed my stereo in and out of my skyline and old cars heaps... so if you have any Questions Just PM me...:cheers: Good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70445-r32-install/#findComment-1304281
Share on other sites

hmmm on my r32 i was able to fit 6 by 9s without any body mods just made up mdf backing.... only problem you would have is with clearance behind... depending on the mounting depth.... mine were like 78mm so they fitted up fine but i had to use 18mm and they cleared the windows but door trim wouldnt go on... if they were like half a cm smaller should have been able to fit them on problems... so it would depend on the size

but then again 6.5 inches speakers are way better

gotta do my install this wkend

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70445-r32-install/#findComment-1314664
Share on other sites

amp wiring can come through the drivers wheel well. there is a body grommet inside it that will allow a decent sized cable through it.

SO does that mean your running the cabling outside underneath the car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70445-r32-install/#findComment-1316010
Share on other sites

here is the link for the wiring diagram.

you don't need a diagram to bypass the stock amp, just run new wires from your head unit/amp to your speakers.

Is it worthe ripping out the old amp while im doing it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70445-r32-install/#findComment-1318317
Share on other sites

I didn't bother ripping out the old amp cos it wasn't in the way of anything I was doing. I guess you could take it out if you really wanter to save an extra kilo.

And with the cables, no don't run them under the car, just under the carpet. That grommet Chris Rogers is talking about ends up on the inside above the accelerator pedal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70445-r32-install/#findComment-1318413
Share on other sites

I didn't bother ripping out the old amp cos it wasn't in the way of anything I was doing. I guess you could take it out if you really wanter to save an extra kilo.

And with the cables, no don't run them under the car, just under the carpet. That grommet Chris Rogers is talking about ends up on the inside above the accelerator pedal.

Oh ok, im with you. I'll ook into that, and i'll ahve to rip out the old amp and relocate the rear wiper assembly motor so i ahve enough room in there for my gear :wassup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70445-r32-install/#findComment-1318492
Share on other sites

don't bother with speakers in the rear if it's a GTS-t. They're not necessary and you'll save money.

The only reason i was going to put them in is cause i got em and there jsut sitting there but your right, you dont need them. Set of components up front with twin 10" MTX Thunders in the boot should do for now :headspin:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70445-r32-install/#findComment-1319365
Share on other sites

Anyone got pics of the boot install with there sub box at all, after looking at the minimal room and height it limits your options and was wondering what everyone else had done to over come this? Post em up so i can get some idea's or just throw your ideas this way :rolleyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70445-r32-install/#findComment-1330907
Share on other sites

don't bother with speakers in the rear if it's a GTS-t. They're not necessary and you'll save money.

personally, after listening to my system in the car after a week or so, I'd still greatly prefer a couple of speakers for rear, even if they are very basic and not high end ones. The sound appears to come much more "around" you, and I like that effect.

Just like at home I prefer 4 speakers powering my music at the one time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70445-r32-install/#findComment-1331057
Share on other sites

personally, after listening to my system in the car after a week or so, I'd still greatly prefer a couple of speakers for rear, even if they are very basic and not high end ones. The sound appears to come much more "around" you, and I like that effect.  

Just like at home I prefer 4 speakers powering my music at the one time.

I was thinking the same thing pred and the way i see it i already have the speakers so i may as well throw them in there and make use of them!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70445-r32-install/#findComment-1331553
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...