Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

rear strut bars on R33 GTST's mount in the boot, not actually "on top" of the struts.

If you open the boot and remove the the cover that is hiding the battery etc. and look at the back of the strut towers you will see two threaded "bolts" on each strut tower. Mine have little PVC hoods on them so yours might as well. Pull the hoods/covers off the bolts and this is where the strut bar attaches.

I checked my boot first and the tower bolts are not accessed from there.

You have to go through the back seat and they are located under the parcel tray.

Its definitely them, they have the rubber boot covering them and it looks like you'd have to hack away at some steel to fit the bar??

Mine is a '93 aswell :confused:

I did that already and they can only be accessed through the back seat.

From the bootside you can see the outside of the tower and their is a steal plate from the strut tower to the parcel tray in front of where the tower bolts are located. so they cannot be accessed from the boot.

I did that already and they can only be accessed through the back seat.

From the bootside you can see the outside of the tower and their is a steal plate from the strut tower to the parcel tray in front of where the tower bolts are located. so they cannot be accessed from the boot.

I have circled the 2 bolts (with boots on) in the picture...same deal on the other side.

If your strut bar doesn't fit up to these points then I suspect you have the wrong type of bar (possibly a GTR one).

strut-bolts.jpg

aaah - those bolts :Oops:

so installing on those bolts will help chasis rigidity then as in the front? Did nissan include those bolts for this purpose? Shame they didnt include any nuts aswell!

I was thinking that you had to install them on the top of the strut towers like on the front. And of course the only way to access the rear tower bolts is from behind the backseat.

Thanks for your help - much appreciated :)

aaah - those bolts :Oops:  

so installing on those bolts will help chasis rigidity then as in the front?  Did nissan include those bolts for this purpose? Shame they didnt include any nuts aswell!

According to SydneyKid the rear strut bars aren't as important as the front ones, but they must add some extra rigidity.

The rear strut bars were a factory option I believe so, yes, Nissan intended the bolts for this purpose.

If you can't find a suitable nut at your local hardware try somewhere like Coventry fasteners.

I was thinking that you had to install them on the top of the strut towers like on the front. And of course the only way to access the rear tower bolts is from behind the backseat.

Thanks for your help - much appreciated  :cheers:

No worries :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My purchase experience was no where near as glorious as yours but still a significant moment in my life! Yeah that's a bit of a dilemma as to whether you bring it back or not!  Obviously a massive waste of time and effort to bring it back if you're only going to move there anyway!
    • To be fair passengers who aren't silly and have been in proper fast cars have often been pretty impressed once you hit 4th gear   
    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
×
×
  • Create New...