Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peeps

Seen alot of people post different views on this so i want some confirmation!

I bought an rb25 turbo and plan to hi-flow it, can i then put this straight onto the rb20 and it will run ok?

Or will i need a new afc, ecu and injectors?

The car has 3' exhaust, fmic, fuel pressure regulator (to be put on) and electronic boost controller set to 0.6 bar and 1 bar.

What parts will i need to change, what would i need to do to get the car running well with it on? Obviously if i boost past 1 bar ill need new injectors/afm to make higher power im well aware of that! More curious to know if it will run fine on 1 bar with the hi-flowed rb25 turbo...

Help would be much appreciated as this is something im looking to do in the future :cheers:

Thanks :cheers:

I know it will physically bolt straight on, even to the current dump pipe but does it need any of these other bits? Seems like if it did might aswell be better off spending abit more on a bigger HKS turbo thats all, and obviously id have to wait a fair bit longer to get a new turbo done if it needed a new ecu etc!! :cheers:

havent done it but am looking to do so, I would think injectors/afm/ecu fine for rb25det turbo upgrade but for a high flow depending on the output would need these three done. Also fuel pressure reg prob not much good unless ur injectors are maxing with rb25 turbo (non high flowed).

im not sure of a few other things though:

in terms of bolting her on i guess 2 new exhaust/dump gaskets and apply maniseal apparently?? Also is there torque settings that you have to use on these bolts on the t3 flange and to dump? Or do you just have a beer and a ciggy and get the spanner n im making too much fuss??

People also seem to say use the rb20 wastegate actuator cause it holds 9psi as opposed to 7psi for the rb25 one - how does this relate to your boost controller say an electronic one?

Sorry for the hijack but hope u and others would also be interested, and we get some details from dudes datve dunnit do deir durbos...didnt mean that it just evolved...ok i shut up now :Oops:

With a 25 turbo on a 20 they do get really fuelly. Even at standard boost levels, higher boost it gest worse.

It will work fine but not be ideal.

Say good by to "any" economy you had. Also you will obviously not make the full power potental of the turbo until its tuned. This has been my experiences anyhow :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
×
×
  • Create New...