Jump to content
SAU Community

Having some Boost Probs....

zinkrb250

By zinkrb250,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

zinkrb250 Enthusiast

zinkrb250

Posted
Posted

1995 240sx SE with a 1996 R33 RB25DET SII

Mods are as follows:

rb25det, Mckinney Mounts, Blitz NurSpec Catback, 3" Test Pipe, Mckinney 3" Down Pipe, ACT 6 Puck, Nismo Thermostat, Nismo FPR, Tein HEs, R33 Front Brake Conversion, Walbro Fuel Pump, FAL 220s, Hybrid FMIC, SPL Stainless Brake Lines, HKS Filter, Tomei 256* Poncams, FNo1Rc's 17x9 +15 on all fours

My car has been running great and i have no complaints so far... until tonight....

I drove around town for a while and then started to head back to my house... Hadn't gotten on it alllll night... until i hit the road i live on

Gave her a little bit of hell... and as soon as i reached "redline" on the s14 tach... it wouldn't push anymore... almost like the wastegate vented all the boost...

shifted into 2nd.... got up to redline... and same thing happened... i hear a "whoooshhh" and car goes limp...

___________________________________________________________

ok so i took it for a joy ride for about 10 minutes.... here's what's going on

i have no boost controller... my car is set at stock boost: 7psi

1st gear dead stop...

pulls ... boost gauge reads 4psi... reaches 7psi... holds at 7psi for a sec. or 2... then "whoooshhh" motor goes limp at approximately redline on the stock 240 tach

2nd gear...

pulls... boost gauge reaches 4psi... almost reaches 7psi... (tach needle close to redline)... then "whooshhhh"... motor goes limp

3rd gear...

same scenario

**note... as soon as i hear the "whoosh" sound... the motor stops pulling... i could keep my foot down on the accelerator and the boost stays down and rpms don't climb too much....

If i let off of the accelerator long enough for the RPMs to fall back down... the motor comes back to life.... same if i shift into a higher gear

Only things i've messed with my car lately are the following:

-Built a CAI out of PVC

-unplugged the maf.. cleaned it with a vacuum... plugged it back up

unplugged

-unplugged a plug... relocated it... plugged it back up... just moved it out of the way too clean up the engine bay... not cutting involved

anything gentlemen anything?????

Link to comment
Share on other sites
zinkrb250 Enthusiast

zinkrb250

Posted
  • Author
Posted
spilt intercooler joiner hose?

don't know it sounds like you have a boost leak somewhere.

the silicon pipe fittings that join the intercooler itself to the intercooler piping have began to bulge on both sides... i can squeeze them and feel air .. like a balloon... is this normal?... maybe this is what is wrong?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
zinkrb250 Enthusiast

zinkrb250

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Checked it out in the daylight today... all my intercooler couplings are tight and no leaking there... couldn't find any suspicious vacuum lines leaking...

However i did find this...

car parked, in neutral... i would rev... boost begins at 20psi vacuum... reaches 0psi vacuum... and at about this time Boost gets dumped and a rubber/silicon coupling (between the compressor and the hotpipe) completely collapses....WHY????

Shouldn't this coupling be channeling air from the compressor down the hotpipe and into the intercooler to be cooled????

24090lu.th.jpg[/url][/img]

See picture above (the coupling that collapses is circled in red)

I need help in a desperately bad way fellas please!!!

thanx

-Andrew

Link to comment
Share on other sites
CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

man thats an annoying problem.

The only 2 things i could think of are

1. The solanoid to the wastegate actuator is surging or broken causing all the boost to exit throught the wastegate. and this is starving the engine of airflow. and thats why the hose you mention is collapsing.

2. the bearings in the turbo arfe gone or going or there is to much shaft play and the turbine is coming in contact with the housing at any decent level of boost, this in turn stops the turbo from producing boost and the engine is starving of air flow again.

Either way i would get that piece of hose replaced with something stiffer or possibly get the "hot pipe" extended to be closer the the outlet of the turbo and just have an inch or so of silicon hose connecting it to the turbo.

hope this helps!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
zinkrb250 Enthusiast

zinkrb250

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanx for the suggestions guys... i fixed the prob!

The ghetto made CAI i built was made with a 3" -> 2" reducer that attached to the MAF and the 2" PVC i used to plub a CAI... i believe the 2" piping was too restrictive which was causing this problem.

It's getting hot here in the states and i would definately like to use a CAI... Therefore, i'm going to try and use 3" pvc and see how well that works out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Great info @tidi0x  Will definitely be handy for others and maybe me if I decide to keep the shit box H pattern.
    • tidi0x
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By tidi0x · Posted

      Bumping this up one last time.... I wanted to follow up on the clutch slave issue. I realized that what the issue comes down to is the pocket is flat milled, and the cylinder does not want rest flat. So in order to mount it correctly you will need to make a spacer for the fingers so the cylinder is floating. I took two plates of aluminum, drilled some holes and was good. I did still need to make the relief cuts in the bell housing, as even with the spacer the bleed section still interferes. The OE bell housing the mounting holes are raised from the housing.       
    • robbo_rb180
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      If the event in USA goes ahead will be interesting as it seems the rules will get more cars over here. Apparently the track is laguna seca too. Yeah s15, if I get a the lower dash trims, centre console and change front cross member to standard LCA position will fit clubsprint. See how rules are as i would rather do complete widebody than a bolt on flare to run the 295 with proper clearance.
    • 180 wanabe
      370gt Stock Suspension

      By 180 wanabe · Posted

      If the car is legal height I can't see it being an issue. Found a thread on reddit that might offer some insight.   I got a ticket from a copper in QLD for my S15 being too low. They had this wheel thing on a stick that they put under the car and it hit my exhaust. Anyhow went to an exhaust shop to get the exhaust tucked up/hung a little higher and I wound the coilovers up a smidge. Don't think I even had to go back to the police station unlike when I got defected for having a carbon bonnet when I brought the S15 from the ACT to QLD and had to replace it and then rock up at a police station and have a yougish female officer who knew nothing about cars confirm that I had changed bonnets. Should have just painted the carbon bonnet yellow to match the rest of the car lol
    • bcozican
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By bcozican · Posted

      Id like to race in the US i think alot of those track would suit me   For the s15? Youd be stuck between club sprint and the new Open Am wouldnt you depending on how much interior you have left in
×
×
  • Create New...