Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

our silver R33 skyline gtst series 1 that was for sale was stolen. it was pretty stock and had a jvc cd player with a remote glued on the dash and a 6 stacker cd changer in the boot. There was a nismo sticker on the back bumper. It had a really weird long and sharp dint in the right door. It had never been registered in australia. It didnt have a compliance plate. A Tall man came to look at the car and he drove a white 1986-1990 toyota camry. He looked at car for awhile but when he rang up about the car and was demanding to look at the car right away. the next morning the car was gone and the was a greasy white glove left behind. A person said that they knew a person who sounded like the guy that came to look at the car and he had a badly smashed silver r33 gtr. the car was stolen about a year ago from Carneigie Mel . If anyone has any info please ring 0418869933, 0423189228 Thanks Rob.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70751-skyline-r33-stolen/
Share on other sites

hrmm a stolen stock r33....yeah i saw about 50 in the last 2 days. You said it wasn't complianced? obiviously the thieves would of had to compliance it to drive it, can you do a check on the vin numbers of cars that have been complianced in the last year? Call vicroads and see if they can check up the VIN. If they were going to register it though I'd imagine they would of fkt around with the vin numbers anyways though, but you never know they might of been dumb. The car has most likely been stripped though. If your car was stolen a year ago you have BUCKLEYS of getting it back. Its not like a stock r33 is anything distinctive that can be picked out of a crowd

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...