R33 GTR - Clutch/Flywheel kit recommendations?

[Blitz]

Hi all,

Im shopping for a new clutch and flywheel for my GTR and looking between the OS Giken twin plate series, ATS carbon and the Nismo Gmax kits.

Im looking for something that will comfortably hold around 350awkw.

The Gmax seems to be priced quite well at around 1800 delivered from Japan, i am however looking for recommendations from GTR owners on what clutches work and which once dont as I do not want something thats going to wear out in 6 months.

Any help is appreciated

Nick

[Morgs]

Get the NISMO, its such a baby on the street and will be fine for the power.

[ferni]

I'd be looking to get a jim berry clutch made up - from what i've heard they are the shiznit!

[Blitz]

Any more feedback people?

[Gav]

For the street DON'T get an unsprung centre! Well, not an HKS one anyway - mine is bloody 'orrible (on/off - i.e stall or whiplash)

Luckily you can fit a sprung centre and I will be doing this.

[2rismo]

I'll vouch for Jim Berry clutches however I think a more appropriate recommendation would come from Stacey & Paul (TWO.06L & DIRTGarage) who have run one of his clutches in their GTR for a LONG time with street driving and drag & circuit work. They make more than 350awkw too.

Don't buy a clutch of all things just because it has a cool Japlish sticker, Nick. Seriously.

Adrian

[Guest DIRTgarage]

I'll vouch for Jim Berry clutches however I think a more appropriate recommendation would come from Stacey & Paul (TWO.06L & DIRTGarage) who have run one of his clutches in their GTR for a LONG time with street driving and drag & circuit work.  They make more than 350awkw too.

Don't buy a clutch of all things just because it has a cool Japlish sticker, Nick.  Seriously.

Adrian

yeah....what he said!!

seriously, if you have ever put a jap clutch on a test bench and seen how awful they clamp down..i.e. all over the place, you would never buy one.

Save yourself some $$$ and buy a properly "built" clutch to suit your application.

p.s.make sure you have plenty of time when you give Jim a call...he loves a chat!

[Guest two.06l]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2rismo

I'll vouch for Jim Berry clutches however I think a more appropriate recommendation would come from Stacey & Paul (TWO.06L & DIRTGarage) who have run one of his clutches in their GTR for a LONG time with street driving and drag & circuit work. They make more than 350awkw too.

Don't buy a clutch of all things just because it has a cool Japlish sticker, Nick. Seriously.

Adrian

Quote:

Originally posted by DIRTgarage

yeah....what he said!!

seriously, if you have ever put a jap clutch on a test bench and seen how awful they clamp down..i.e. all over the place, you would never buy one.

Save yourself some $$$ and buy a properly "built" clutch to suit your application.

p.s.make sure you have plenty of time when you give Jim a call...he loves a chat!

yeah....what they said!!

[BoOsTeD_RB26]

I've heard a lot about these Jim Berry clutches. They really seem to be the shiznit.

Are they mainly big singles or are they multi plate clutches?

DIRTgarage: Are you using a single or a twin for that application? Surely a twin?

Custom clutches sound expensive though!!

[Guest two.06l]

I've heard a lot about these Jim Berry clutches. They really seem to be the shiznit.

Are they mainly big singles or are they multi plate clutches?

DIRTgarage: Are you using a single or a twin for that application? Surely a twin?

Custom clutches sound expensive though!!

answers to questions...

yes...Jim Berry clutches are the shiznit

mainly big singles...who needs a rattly multi when you can build a single to hold 1000hp...yes 1000hp!

a single...we haven't cracked the 1000hp mark...YET!

$1100 dollars is cheap in my books

[Guest DIRTgarage]

answers to questions...

yes...Jim Berry clutches are the shiznit

mainly big singles...who needs a rattly multi when you can build a single to hold 1000hp...yes 1000hp!

a single...we haven't cracked the 1000hp mark...YET!

$1100 dollars is cheap in my books

yeah....what she said!

[benm]

I hear an echo!

Where abouts is Jim Berry located? (url)

[2rismo]

URL? Sorry mate, not for Race Clutch/Jim Berry/Italia Spares etc.

You have to call Jim and you'd better be comfy when you do.

07 38479999

Adrian

[Guest Mashrock]

i have an os twin plate. and i probably make about 300kw.

its nice for street. and has been thrashed apart on the track. still works fine.. i am unsure on k/m tho but i'd think its been in there for a while.

tho i thinking of going to one of the twin carbon clutches as i drove a nice track racing 33 gtr which had 25/30's, and it was so lovely! but am unsure on what carbon clutch it was..

[Blitz]

Thanks Adrian, contrary to what you seem to think im not specifically seeking a cool jap clutch.

I have worn out a typical heavy duty unit and seen many people wear out japanese multiplate clutches rather quickly thus me posing the question.

I am aware of Jim Berry clutches and will be looking into them as a serious option

[someonestolecc]

Do they do clutches around the $500 mark ? ie. not for 100000000kw but more like 200rwkw?

[Blitz]

That would be a topic for another thread

[BK]

A standard GT-R clutch is around $550 but since they're pretty crap don't bother. For a good dollar versus performance clutch my V-Spec is running a Adelaide Clutch Services Xtreme (or Xclutch) XHD ceramic button single plate. The pressure plate is 1260kg vs 800 odd for the standard one. There are 9 cushioned buttons and the centre is sprung too. From driving it's quite good for the street and will keep up with most sprung twin-platers for 300rwkW+. Being a high clamping single it wears the flywheel and pressure plate way quicker than a twin.(Twins don't actually clamp as hard) I paid $1300 fitted to my car in 6 Hrs. Xclutch are actually the only company who actually can pressure test clutches in Australia. When they say 1260kg, it is actually 1260kg. Sprung Xclutch twin (with flywheel) is around $2300 fitted. Australian built and good value.

[2rismo]

As wear is an issue with any clutch, just a small word of advice:

Clutches wear the friction surfaces from the period of time before the clutch is fully engaged and spinning at the same rate as the flywheel. i.e. when you are letting the clutch pedal out and waiting for the drive to 'take up' completley. It also occurs when the torque the motor is producing is enough to override the clamp pressure exerted by the pressure plate on the clutch plate.

Contrary to popular belief, the friendliest driving style to preserve a clutch is one that uses less slipping and less babying of the flywheel/clutch plate etc.

Short of dropping the clutch from high revs and lighting them up (something I never ever do ), getting off the clutch as quick as possible is the best thing to do.

It is also very important that the fingers that make up the pressure plate exert as equal a pressure as possible on the clutch plate(s). There's no point having 5mm of clutch plate friction surface from new and then wearing it unevenly as well as only having one side of the plate(s) clamped to the flywheel. An unbalanced driveline can present itself in many other ways. The more cheaply made clutches (including some very expensive and popular Japanese brands) don't neccessarily balance up like they should and need to be corrected right out of the box.

Lessons: Don't slip the clutch whenever possible, make sure your pressure plate (whatever the brand) clamps evenly, and get the entire clutch assembly (clutch plate, pressure plate and flywheel) balanced together prior to installation.

What a rant - hope it helps someone though.

Adrian

[benm]

How do you work out what pressure plate you need?