Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

brotecs new 'power slipper' clutch is the best for sure. it's a six plate kevlar/unobtanium mix...

ATM I have OS Giken twin plate. it's not too bad but it is pretty brutal. I reckon I'll go for the sprung centre option next time too.

  • 2 weeks later...

All these people Quoting OS gieken and the like priced at $2g ???????

Jim Berry is the man, he CAN give you the clamping preassure of your new clutch, (mine 37000) and for a 5 finger carbotic clutch for a GTR with approx 500rwhp (mine) for under $1g (with flywheel) why go anywhere else??

Im not an expert in clutches but as far as i know if you have a spring rated and tested at 37000 pound and you are forcing 5 fingers onto a flywheel rather than a WHOLE plate or even a similar spring trying to grip two full plates the 5 fingers are going to have a GREAT deal more GRIP on the flywheel and less chance slip

DONT RIDE THE CLUTCH if you are finding that you are burning clutches out on a regular basis might be worth while to change your driving techniques

Oh he is in Brissy and he DOES love a GOOD chat!!!

P.S it might bee a good idea for some of the sau members to go to someone like JIM and listen to someone with some actual experiance not just come on here and dribble total

SH!T

P.S it might bee a good idea for some of the sau members to go to someone like JIM and listen to someone with some actual experiance not just come on here and dribbel total  

SH!T

A truer word was never spoken.

Adrian

The other guys to talk to if you want someone in Sydney are St Marys Brake and Clutch, we got the race car's single plate and pressure plate from there for $800. over 300kw atw no problems after a full year's racing and 2 targas.

How do Jims clutchs (wonder if its like jims mowing? :) ) handle daily driving (in traffic)?

I'm after a clutch that can hold decent power and last longer than a year in daily driving (traffic etc..) Does he provide a flywheel with it as well? or does he modify your std flywheel? I've lost my std flywheel only have the lightweight one from my twinplate (in my car atm)

The other guys to talk to if you want someone in Sydney are St Marys Brake and Clutch, we got the race car's single plate and pressure plate from there for $800.  over 300kw atw no problems after a full year's racing and 2 targas.

Hi Duncan;

how would you rate that clutch for street use? god or dog?

Mark

  • 4 weeks later...
Blitz how did you go with the clutch? I am interested in getting one too

Kinell, due to a few issues with availability in Japan the clutch took a while to arrive but here it is.

I went for the brand new Nismo Super Coppermix twin plate kit, with lightened flywheel. The Nismo clutch was recommended to me by various people a a nice compromise between strength and drivability - I wanted a clutch that can take a hammering but wouldnt be a pain on the street so the super coppermix fitted the bill, and if it still proves to be rather heavy for street use, the Nismo larger clutch operating cylinder is also available for further improve the feel

Its being fitted as I type this, so i will provide more information on its drivability once I have taken it for a test run.

nismosc.jpg

Whats the Nismo larger clutch operating cylinder all about? are you talking about a master/slave cylinder? How much are they worth, what are they ment to do?

Edit: ok quick search shows its a slave cylinder - what benifits does it provide over a normal slave?

Edit2: Ok bit more searching tells me

"When using with NISMO racing clutch kit, this product changes heavy clutch pedal feeling to lighter feeling. Bigger cylinder diameter (20.54mm) comparing with standard one (19.05mm) enables you to control clutch pedal much easier. Best matched with NISMO racing clutch series."

So how is it different using it with a nismo clutch rather than any other clutch?

Correct me if i'm wrong but it will just make the pedal lighter, its nog going to actually make the clutch less on/off?

but it will just make the pedal lighter, its nog going to actually make the clutch less on/off?

you are not wrong. that's exactly what it does. it does so at the expense of travel. I had one in my GTR (OS twin plate). Pedal was remarkably light, but I found it didn't have quite enough travel. so that sometimes even with the pedal all the way to the floor it was hard to engage first gear. could have been a bit leaky too though, so possibly a brand new one would be ok. i just replaced it with a stock nissan slave and the pedal was much heavier, but everything worked fine.

Cool thanks for the info - Interested to see how you like your clutch Nick - give it a couple of months before making final judgement, my twin felt great when i first put it in, then after a couple of months didn't feel so good, i'm going back to a single.

Also if you end up changing the slave cyl to the nismo one, let me know what difference it makes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
    • From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v.  I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.
    • 3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access
    • OK, so the weight has been bugging because it was really low. I did it again today and got a more believable answer at 1246 without driver And with a 93kg driver I'm pretty sure the car was still slightly on the quickjack last time meaning the full weight was not on the scales  
×
×
  • Create New...