Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo Noises


97Sky
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi guys just wanting some help.

I was just wondering apart from the obvious how can you tell when a turbo is on its way out?

Does it start to get louder i.e. you can hear the turbine spinning easier?

Just after some info so I know what to look for or hear.

Many thanks

By the way I have a 97 series 2 R33 with 87,000 on the clock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Common symptoms and conditions:

- Turbine Seal Leak: White smoke in exhaust, bad O2 sensor readings, Oily exhaust pipe, black oil due to excessive blowby.

- Compressor Seal Leak: Oil in intercooler piping and Throttle Body, also white smoke out the tailpipe.

- Damaged compressor or turbine wheels: loud sounds, vibrations and chunks of metal coming from the turbo.

- Damaged bearings or bearing failure: Decreased boost levels, increased noise and vibrations, usually accompanied by more smoke.

Those are all the major problems that turbos have.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would never LS an R32 either. I do have truly evil thoughts about VK56s or the Toyo V12s out of New Zealand though. Very hard to justify for my daily....
    • Oh no. There's heaps. A whole lot of them are legitimately handling/installation problems. The material used in the L19 bolts is susceptible to hydrogen embrittlement and must be kept well oiled and not handled without gloves, etc etc. There have been many failures of these from people who didn't realise. There may also have been failures caused by conditions inside the engine (say, head gasket failures?) and people didn't realise that that was probably a death warrant. But that's the L19 material. The ARP 2000s are not made of the same stuff and are more forgiving. But from what I gather there have been occasions where the head has pulled off of one, and non-one can say that the installation was at fault (given good torque records), etc etc, but maybe just maybe the face of the rod shoulder where the bolt head sits wasn't actually perfectly square to the bore of the hole...and loaded up the head with a torque across it and.... ping! I've head stories of bolt heads being found in corners of workshops or in the bottom of sumps even without starting and running the engine! Trouble is, it is really hard to sort the true material failures from the handling/installation failures. It's worse than human medicine. You can only run the experiment once, and you can't run it backwards in time to look at the rod before it became a modern sculpture.
    • In my experience with maxspeed rods, it was not that the ARP rod bolts were "fake" but they are made under licence from ARP, rather than made directly by ARP. Not the same thing and quite likely to have more quality variations, let's be realistic. I haven't had any issues with mine.  I daresay look hard enough, there would be some failures of genuine ARP products too though? Even if very few.
    • Haha honestly the thought crossed my mind but skylines are so damn rare here someone would probably hang me 😂    I’ve had a few LS swapped cars (280zx and a foxbody mustang) so trying something a bit different this time 
    • Not much info in that request..... If you have a VIN you could look up the factory part number here: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan
×
×
  • Create New...