Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My latch is now fixed.

Does your latch feel like new? My safety pin doesn't look as thick as yours and the latch doesn't feel as strong as before it broke.

The ash tray opens under heavy acceleration. I'm not sure exactly what's causing the problem. I haven't looked at it in months.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

You are a legend mate.

It works a treat, but when i was putting the safety pin in place (after i cut the sharp point of with plyers) i stabbed my finger with it, pissed out blood! I think i hit the bone cause it hurts like hell!!!

Once again thanks heeps for the guide, but mabey put a warning for beware of idoits like myself getting stabbed by the pin :D

Cheers

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 11 months later...

Ok it's an old thread, but bloody hell what a great idea!

I did this yesterday. It kept p!ssing me off when the console lid would unlatch and swing open :D

Is sooo easy to fix- Nissan should've put a spring in there to begin with...

Thanks for the ingenious threads- keep 'em coming :)

agreed, f**king excellent! you are a champion!

mine broke the first day i owned my car, and has been pissing me off for over 5 fkn years, unlatching and flying open when i gas it!

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I had the same problem a while back.

I just cut off a 2cm long piece of standard garden hose and shoved it in the latch.

Works a treat and you don't even have to remove the lid to push it in.

  • 3 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...
Hey all,

Anyone else got a broken centre console latch?

You know, the little button you press to open that compartment behind the hand brake that you rest your left elbow on??

I have found on both my R33's that these were broken and didn't realise how annoying it had been till I fixed them.

Here's how I did it -

WHAT YOU WILL NEED - All you will need is a medium sized safety pin, Phillips head screwdriver and a pair of pliers.

TIME – 10 minutes.

DIFFICULTY – Piss easy! I reckon I could teach a monkey to do this.

STEP 1.

Remove console lid by undoing the 3 screws that go down into the console.

This may require a little gentle jiggling to clear the hinge springs after the screws are removed.

You should have the lid as in pic console01.

STEP 2.

Remove hinge from lid (3 screws) and all the screws (8) holding the plastic underside of the lid in place.

This will allow you to take out the latch, removing the broken bits of plastic that have been rattling round in there.

Refer pic console02.

STEP 3.

Find a medium sized safety pin, make sure that the size of the hole part on the pin is a snug fit over the latch pivot (pic console05).

Cut the head and point of the pin off, and bend with the pliers as per pics console03 & console04.

STEP 4.

Place pin within the latch as shown in the rest of the pics, then trim the pins top arm to be close to flush with the face of the plastic (pic console06).

STEP 5.

Put everything back together.

You should now have a nice firm feeling, spring loaded latch.

Hope this helps! :)

post-12522-1123161356.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had never actually looked into it, but aren't onboard compressors a thing in trucks?
    • Read the ECU for fault codes or have someone else do it. A faulty coolant temperature sender is usually listed in ECUs. If the sensor itself is not busted it can also be a bad ground connection. Or in a really unlucky case, damaged wiring.
    • Can't be a Futjitsubo as those are made with a flex piece and Reimax is smaller in pipe diameter. If anything it is closest to a Mines pipe, but evidently it is not an actual Mines pipe.   Classic word humor
    • Alright I will try to not forget.   As GTSboy replied to you already, problem is mainly the mismatch between the actual exhaust part and the denomination in the papers. That basically just looks like tampering to a cop, if they were to check your car and notice. If it had been done right they would have clarified it to be a custom pipe and just given it a certain part number that you have to engrave or weld onto the pipe. I will definitely inquire on what to do. Changing the pipe wouldn't be my favorite solution as it costs a bunch of money and the cat was fitted with the front pipe and exhaust under the car, and if the front pipe flange does not sit in the OEM location the cat will need to be refit for any other pipe to work. It also usually doesn't need a brand name or something like that, but more something like a part number. Usually for exhaust parts, on silencers and cat units specifically, there is a badge that reads the certificate number that belongs to these exhaust parts under EU regulation. You get these numbers after you put a part or group of parts through the tedious testing according to EU vehicle legislation and they pass. You can find these "part numbers" on various parts throughout a EU vehicle. On windows, headlights, engine parts, seat belts and so on. All these parts have gone through standardized testing and acquired a so called ECE or EG Certificate that makes them legal to use by themselves in all countries that adhere to these standards. You can also not alter these parts in any way, if you do they become illegal. An example for stampings on an exterior lighting part, the people who need to know can find the documentation for this unit in a database. I do not know what all the standards and so on mean.
    • If that was the case I suppose you could call it "Mein's" brand....  ... I'll see myself out... 😅
×
×
  • Create New...