Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gday chaps , got my first taste of clutch slipping the other day and my second dose tonight to confirm that its on the way out :D

had a good run though (2 years since i bought the car with it) with highish power so i cant really complain.

this is my first manual car so i dunno how it works, i wont be driving it on high boost till i get it replaced but how long should that be now that i've got some slippage

anyone reccomend a decent clutch for 33gtst with around 225rwkw?

cheerypoppins

Jim

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71010-clutch-dying-nooooooooo/
Share on other sites

Extreem 9puk Ceramic Cushioned with a 1tonne pressure plate.

The 800kg pressure plate will also easily hold 223rwkw and be a little lighter on the leg.

It really is a nice clutch. Very nice hard grab yet it can still be rode slightly (for a second) before it grabs and gives a couple of slight thumps some times chirping the wheels. Very very streetable.

These clutches are getting around in quite a few 300rwkw RB's & 2JZ's.

Cost me $600.

dude i'm pretty impressed that you managed to keep that clutch going for 2 yrs with 225rwkw being your first manual.....it couldn't have been a stock clutch could it?

I've got an excedy 5-puk brass button clutch - bit of a bitch to drive thru heavy traffic, but its very nice for drifting, bites quite hard.

I just installed an Exceedy full face - will find out what model and let you know if interested. It is rated the heighest for the exceedy full face, sprung hub. (it feels very nice - not hard to drive!).  

cost for me was $550 (for a full clutch kit)

Same here, with the 850kg pressure plate.

It's actually lighter than the stock clutch I had in my GTSt, and it bites really well. Cost 800 installed ($550 for clutch), and that also included replacing the spigot bush.

On the dyno I got 200rwkw, but i have a feeling it is closer to 190..

For street use this clutch it great...

I was going to get the extreem 9 puck ceramic cushioned clutch initially, but i was told to steer clear of it by the person installing it.

Hmm $550 is a nice price.

I went on Cubes advice and ordered the DCBHD for the sr20 with 860kg pressure plate yesterday. That's 9 puk ceramic. The engine is putting out 180-200rwkw (depending which dyno you wanna go by) and will hopefully be closer to the 230rwkw with some EBC action.

Hope it's good - a lot of people seem to use this on SAU (there's a couple of other threads about this in the last month or so).

Zahos - this is the first I've anything remotely bad about them, did that person say anything?

If anyone reads this and wants to know how I went PM me in a few weeks :P

Firstly I was told my driving habbits would chew through the flywheel. I drive in traffic and up steep hills to and from work and tend to sometimes slip it a little, and that the pressure plates are made from inferior materials and can be prone to premature failure.

My driving habbits are what led him to tell me to steer clear.

The premature failure on the pressure plate he has seen in very few cases. On this point he was trying to discourage me from it, didn't tell me I shouldn't get it.

Unless you are really unlucky, you should be fine.

In terms of driving habbits, need to make sure that clutch suits your application. If it does, then I wouldn't worry about anything if I were you.

I just installed an Exceedy full face - will find out what model and let you know if interested. It is rated the heighest for the exceedy full face, sprung hub. (it feels very nice - not hard to drive!).  

cost for me was $550 (for a full clutch kit)

I would be interested too.... :rofl:

Extreem 9puk Ceramic Cushioned with a 1tonne pressure plate.

 

The 800kg pressure plate will also easily hold 223rwkw and be a little lighter on the leg.

 

It really is a nice clutch. Very nice hard grab yet it can still be rode slightly (for a second) before it grabs and gives a couple of slight thumps some times chirping the wheels. Very very streetable.

 

These clutches are getting around in quite a few 300rwkw RB's & 2JZ's.

 

Cost me $600.

sounds good cubes where did you get it? pm me if you like

and did you get the tonne or 800?

dude i'm pretty impressed that you managed to keep that clutch going for 2 yrs with 225rwkw being your first manual.....it couldn't have been a stock clutch could it?

I've got an excedy 5-puk brass button clutch - bit of a bitch to drive thru heavy traffic, but its very nice for drifting, bites quite hard.

nah it wasnt, "apparently" and i say that cause thats what the previous owner claimed was that it was.. "apparently" a 33 GTR clutch modified for the gtst, but as i said thats probably not true cause the previous owner was a lying sack of shit... hi turbogtst :wavey:

has always been lovely to drive tho whatever it was

Same here, with the 850kg pressure plate.

It's actually lighter than the stock clutch I had in my GTSt, and it bites really well. Cost 800 installed ($550 for clutch), and that also included replacing the spigot bush.

On the dyno I got 200rwkw, but i have a feeling it is closer to 190..

For street use this clutch it great...

I was going to get the extreem 9 puck ceramic cushioned clutch initially, but i was told to steer clear of it by the person installing it.

Mine is heavier than the stock GTR clutch and is rated to handle over 300rwkw. I'll check tonight to see what model and rating :rofl:

so if i get one of these but no upgraded flywheel will there be big probs?

All depends on your driving habbits.

It doesn't mean you will need to upgrade it, but just an issue of its longevity if you tend to ride the clutch a little sometimes. I wouldn't worry...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...