Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When initialisiting the SAFC and you go into the

etc -> Sensor Type -> Hotwire

Do you set both the "In" and "Out" sensors to the sensor number or just the "In". I set just the "In" and it was idling rough... Also in the "Car Select" when you choose 6 cylinders which day does the arrow point? Diagonal upright or downright?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7103-safc-initialisation-questions/
Share on other sites

400HP, by referring to the SAFC setup chart, if In/Out sensor numbers are different, the manual will give two numbers i.e. 2/4.

If only one number is given, in case of R33, set both In/Out the same numbers.

Good to hear that now ur SAFC is working fine :-)

Good to hear that now ur SAFC is working fine :-)

Yeh I'm very happy about it. Just need to get it tuned a bit now.

If only one number is given, in case of R33, set both In/Out the same numbers.

On the manual it says the GTR is a HW-3 so I'm assuming that its just Hotwire with sensor number 3? But I guess this must be it cos when i set it any other way it almost stalls at idle.

Yeap, 3 is the sensor number which must be set into In & Out settings.

Unless you are doing a GT-R single airflow meter conversion, then In & Out would be different values. That's what I read in SAFC manual and they give an example on a GT-R n 300ZX I think...

Can i install a 2nd hand SAFC and safely run the car before having it tuned.....Does the SAFC have a default mode of operation where it makes no change to the airflow signal or does it remember the previous owners setting??

Where do most people put the unit, i have a r33, thinking about modifying the small holder benieth the climate control.

Any advice greatly appreciated

Yes thats exactly what I've done. All you need to do is "Initialise" the SAFC. Theres a setting for this. You then make sure it knows the car type, the number of inputs and outputs and just leave the correction at 0.

This means it wil read in Aiflow and feed it back to ECU as is without correction. Just make sure you initialise it.

Hey Guys, my installation drawing shows 6 wires,

red = power

Green = Rpm

Brown = Ground 1

Black = Ground 2

Yellow = Airflow out

White = Airflow In

On the Ecu drawing for the R33 it list a throttle signal.

Question

Is the Throttle signal needed, if so, which color wire is attached to it.....

Help needed asap as l am in the middle of the install..

Thankyou

I don't understand your problem. If you've managed to do all the other wires its exactly the same. Follow the ECU diagram and intercept the throttle with your SAFC wire.

I'm not sure if it will run without it. I assume if you've already wired the airflow in and out that the SAFC is expecting the throttle reading too.

my install guide didn't tell me ANY of the colours of the ECU wires.... it only had colours of the SAFC wires. From each ECU pin there should only be ONE wire.

So all you do is locate the pin.... see which wire is coming out the back of it.... and tap into that with the SAFC wire.

  • 2 months later...
  • 8 months later...

guys, help please.

im installing my new s-afc today. only problem is where the wiring diagram(ecu pinout) shows my rpm signal wire on the ecu, there is no wire in this spot??????????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
    • Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
    • From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v.  I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.
    • 3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access
×
×
  • Create New...