Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks Steve,

Even clearer now, just like putting glasses on. I'm running at the Motorplex on Wednesday, I'll fit the pinapples after that and then compare my times.

Anyone with info on running with camber? The R33's do have camber bolts don't they?

See'ya:burnout:

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Skyzerr33,

Thanks for clearing that up, cheers mate.

Rob77,

I didn't say it didn't work for him, but I was told in general that it was a waste of time. Does anyone else run low pressures? If so what pressure and what tyres are they on?

See'ya :burnout:

have drag raced for quite a few years and running low tyre pressures is the way to do things. I forgot to let my tyres down last time and I was lucky enough to meet a bloke with a tyre guage.

19/20 psi or lower for most tyres. Your sidewalls will stay on the rim as long as you don't try going around corners real fast.

Zoom can kiss my ass! A sample size of at least 30 is required to make something statistically valid (though not necessarily absolutley true) I wish I had a dollar for every time something is 'proven' by a test involving 3 or 4 cars, products or runs.

Heyas,

I Have JIC Coilovers and my ride is as hard as all hell! due to the firmness of the coilovers and the hardness will that be an advatnage when i decide to do the quarter? Prob would stop a bit of squatting at the start fo the drag but would it in any way help out wiht wheelspin or would the cradle kit and pineaples still be the way to go?

I guess everyone has their own thoughts on tyre pressure, but personally, I don't think lower pressure on street tyres will make much of a difference.. but of course, there's so many different tyres, and every one runs different rim width and diameter sizes so who knows..... what's good pressure for someone, may prove to be slower for others.

I first run (out of 8) gave me my second quickest time. This was on standard tyre press of 34psi, and I'm pretty sure that my quickest time was only better because I was starting to get the launches down pat. I won't bother lowering pressure next time.

my 2c.

This is just like the burnout, no burnout argument.

I was doin burnouts before each run last wednesday assuming it was giving me traction. Since then i've heard of many people that it makes f#ck all diference on street tyres. But on sunday I started off the day with no burnouts but found first gear just kept spinning. So I tried doin the burnouts again and ran 13.74.

Originally posted by rob77

I couldnt be assed connecting my scanner and loading up the software (cos I havent reloaded it since I re-did windows). So I took a photo of it.

a photo slacker

hey i may be missreading it but when your at the drags that sheet is telling me you should be changing gears just before 5500rpm each change other wise you gonna start decelerating. and you want to be launching at about 2500rpm as you start to get a bag fall of torque then.

Originally posted by skyzerr33

yes i know

but torque is related to acceleration

when your torque starts to drop off is when you want change gears otherwise you'll start to loose momentom. that why i say you have to know your car

Change gears around your horsepower peak buddy.

Before or after depends on how sharp the fall off is and what the gear ratios are like.

Rob: as above.

:P

Originally posted by skyzerr33

hey i may be missreading it but when your at the drags that sheet is telling me you should be changing gears just before 5500rpm each change other wise you gonna start decelerating. and you want to be launching at about 2500rpm as you start to get a bag fall of torque then.

You also need to take into account where the change will put you in the rev range for the next gear. No use changing at 5500 if it puts you in a crap place in the next gear.

You should experiment according to the dyno sheet and find a balance.

Originally posted by rob77

Managed to pull 273.5PS @ 6608rpm on the rear wheels, using Speedworks new DynaPak dyno.

With the mods you have, 273 sounds close to the hp you'd have at the engine, not the wheels. Are Speedworks sure the dyno wasn't set to estimate power at the engine?

in that case I can't help but think you have other mods done to your car than what you're telling us

also why are cars in the wrong classes?? like has everyone had an engine conversion to something drastically larger?

eg ur in 3401cc - 4500cc

what engine u running??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PULSAR PSR2860R 0.86A/R or 0.64 GEN 2 Turbocharger Both are -50*67mm 8 blade billet compressor wheel Cheers  
    • This isn't for lotsa powers, and time and effort isn't even a thing I'm concerned about The whole reason is "Just because fun", and "Just because fun" is what I do And whilst there are other kits, with better and more modern turbos (Rev9 use the same Kraken manifold I believe.....EDIT... nope, the Kraken is a cast jobbie, the REv9 uses welded up stainless, plus $8000 AUD before shipping, installation and tuning) Where else in Sydney can I do a drive in drive out with the after sales support that MX5 Mania give My Turbo 86 made around 200kwatw on a AVO turbo kit that Pulse fitted, and it was over 100kg heavier than the MX5, but it was a blast to drive around the streets, until I crashed it.....DOOH, so somewhere around 200 ish level and some whooshy noises and I'll be happy driving to work, the shops, or heading into the country with Jackie for Devonshire tea So, thanks Dose for your info, it sounds like a 0.64 will be fine for what I'm after👍 The only real racing I do nowadays is to the toilet
    • This isn't for lotsa powers, and time and effort isn't even a thing I'm concerned about The whole reason is "Just because fun", and "Just because fun" is what I do And whilst there are other kits, with better and more modern turbos (Rev9 use the same Kraken manifold I believe), where in Sydney can I do a drive in drive out with the after sales support that MX5 Mania give My Turbo 86 made around 200kwatw on a AVO turbo kit, and was over 100kg heavier than the MX5, but it was a blast to drive around the streets, until I crashed it.....DOOH, so somewhere around 200 ish level and some whooshy noises and I'll be happy driving to work, the shops, or heading into the country with Jackie for Devonshire tea So, thanks Dose for your info, it sounds like a 0.64 will be fine for what I'm after👍 The only real racing I do nowadays is to the toilet  
    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
×
×
  • Create New...