Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a R33 GTS-t and currently have the following setup:

 Turbo back exhaust

 Hiflow filter for stock air box

 An oriface from benl1981 which gives me 10.5-11psi boost (depending on wat gear I am in) - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=70006

 And have a powerfc that I have yet to put into my car

I have the following questions:

 When I put the powerfc and do the tune will I need any upgraded components eg fuel pump, injectors etc?

 What kind of numbers should I expect after tuning given the above setup?

 I know that at some point that will need a few more fuel system/ clutch upgrades. How my rwkw is that when I need to worry about that stuff?

 If I am getting to this level, I don’t want to upgrade these at this stage so I intend to tune if for lower octane fuel. Is this possible?

 Would I get much benefit from an electronic boost controller and if I do get this later will I need a retune?

 Also thinking of putting a R34 GTT intercooler on the thing. What numbers will be getting then?

 Again will I need a retune for that?

 If I changed my muffler to a less noisy one will I need a retune?

 When do you need a retune – how necessary are retunes for new componentry?

I have a R33 GTS-t and currently have the following setup:

 Turbo back exhaust

 Hiflow filter for stock air box

 An oriface from benl1981 which gives me 10.5-11psi boost (depending on wat gear I am in) - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=70006

 And have a powerfc that I have yet to put into my car

 

I have the following questions:

1. When I put the powerfc and do the tune will I need any upgraded components eg fuel pump, injectors etc?

2. What kind of numbers should I expect after tuning given the above setup?

3. I know that at some point that will need a few more fuel system/ clutch upgrades.  How my rwkw is that when I need to worry about that stuff?

4. If I am getting to this level, I don’t want to upgrade these at this stage so I intend to tune if for lower octane fuel. Is this possible?  

5. Would I get much benefit from an electronic boost controller and if I do get this later will I need a retune?

6. Also thinking of putting a R34 GTT intercooler on the thing. What numbers will be getting then?  

7. Again will I need a retune for that?

8. If I changed my muffler to a less noisy one will I need a retune?

9.  When do you need a retune – how necessary are retunes for new componentry?

My suggestion follow;

1. No

2. 25 rwkw is not unusual

3. fuel pump, ~225 rwkw, clutch when it starts to slip usually ~200 rwkw

4. Lower octane fuel? Nope, just run lower boost.

5. Yes, the PFC boost control kit would go well with the PFC

6. I have seen 215 rwkw from a car with an R34 GT intercooler

7. Not if your tuner has done a good job

8. Not if your tuner has done a good job

9. It does pay to check when you do upgrades, 10 minutes on the dyno and ~$50 may save you from problems.

Hope that helps:cheers:

My suggestion follow;

1. No

2. 25 rwkw is not unusual

3. fuel pump, ~225 rwkw, clutch when it starts to slip usually ~200 rwkw

4. Lower octane fuel?  Nope, just run lower boost.

5. Yes, the PFC boost control kit would go well with the PFC

6. I have seen 215 rwkw from a car with an R34 GT intercooler

7. Not if your tuner has done a good job

8. Not if your tuner has done a good job

9. It does pay to check when you do upgrades,  10 minutes on the dyno and ~$50 may save you from problems.

Hope that helps:cheers:

All that stuff helps a lot

I have a few more questions:

- in wat ways will the electronic boost controller help the setup?

- if i changed the boost on the boost controller like from say 10/11psi to say 14psi will i need it to be retuned?

- on the described setup wat kind of rwkw numbers am I looking at?

- for tuning should i tune for for 95octane or 98 octane petrol?

- in wat ways will the electronic boost controller help the setup?

the bleed valve is essentially that, a valve it will just be open at a fixed size and nothing else. you get what you are given. with an ebc you have a device monitoring and controller the pressure level, its much more accurate and you can adjust boost directly by choosing a boost level in bar or psi whereas a bleed vavle you just keep opening until you get what you think its ok. and in different weeather conditions the bleed valve will spike whereas the ebc should keep it under control more. you can get ebc's pretty cheap nowadays, just dont get a brand new one and u should be fine

- if i changed the boost on the boost controller like from say 10/11psi to say 14psi will i need it to be retuned?

i wouldn't think so but it could help to check the af's make sure its safe etc. dont run 14psi on the stock turbo, youll kill it

- on the described setup wat kind of rwkw numbers am I looking at?

r33 + powerfc + r34 gtt intercooler + 10psi. i'd say around 170rwkw to 180rwkw. i have ths same except front mount instead of r34 gtt and im running 12psi and getting 172rwkw

- for tuning should i tune for for 95octane or 98 octane petrol?

the highest octain readily avaiable to you. so octain 98. always premium

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello First, I apologize if this is not the correct forum. Let me know and I will move it to the correct one. I'm having a problem with the tachometer on my Skyline R33 with an RB25DET Neo engine. I'll tell you from the beginning. I'll tell you from the beginning. I have the RB25DET Neo engine installed in a Nissan Patrol GU, with a Link G4X control unit specifically for that engine,  and I have fitted a Skyline R33 tachograph to the original GU dashboard, but it doesn't work properly. I have the tachometer connected to the positive and negative terminals of the GU panel's wiring, and the signal cable is connected directly to the ECU output pin, but the rpm fluctuates widely. Can anyone tell me if the output signal from an R33 ECU is the same as the output signal from an R34 ECU, or if the voltage and signal type are different? Regards and thanks.  
    • I guess it was the thought about "Oh if I were to drive this everyday". Then no, SL500 I wouldn't really consider lmao. 
    • Yeah actually really fair point. Idk what I was thinking when looking at the SL500. Now that I think about it, I feel like I would have more enjoyment out of a shitbox that I would need to repair than some fancy merc. Although I must admit the SL500 does look quite nice. My bad hahaha.
    • 100% Also "Not wanting to spend money" is THE WORST IDEA IMAGINABLE when coming to a project car of any kind. They EXIST to BURN MONEY. Sure, gas money is a thing. A stock car with the worst fuel economy ever sold would probably be cheaper than modifying a car with FREE petrol for the life of your ownership of it, lol.
    • Amount of time you're being observed by law enforcement is so minute, that you could be a dumb shit 90% of your driving time, and never lose a demerit. You could also be the best driver ever and still get hit with a fine.   When you realise how quickly everything turns from "Wee, we're having fun!" To "oh f**k oh f**k oh f**k", you start to realise the only way to be a good driver, is to not be doing anything dumb or unexpected by normies on the road. You want to go fast, go to the track. Someone there in a 1990s slow POS will also show you how bad of a driver you are as they lap 10 seconds per lap quicker than you can in a car that should be considerably faster.
×
×
  • Create New...