Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone,

as the title suggests, im thinking about blowing $1000 on a few small upgrades for the old '32. ive been reading other posts and threads id found while searching which generally state progression of upgrades or which path to get each in. but i was kind ahoping to get some opinions on whether or not this kinda path would be good for the time being..

the car is pretty much stock apart from the exhaust, which is abouts a 3inch cat back, it seems to get bigger and bigger as it goes along (stock off turbo, three inch cat, four inch tail to a five inch tip.. go figure), but everything else is stock.

so i was thinking, perhaps an rb25 turbo, fuel pump and perhaps a tune of the stock ecu? it already runs around 10psi (as read on the boost guage..) so im alright with that for the time being giving its still got stock intercooling.

but what are your thoughts regarding the upgrades in looking at? would money be better spent elsewhere rather then turbo/pump, outright intercooler and dump pipe maybe?

cheers,

shaun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71243-1000-for-upgrades-what-to-buy/
Share on other sites

I would probably go the front pipe (heat wrapped).. so you have 3" from the turbo right back.

Then possibly consider a Jaycar DFA + EBC .. and probably a cheap intercooler.. (piping would blow over the budget however). You can then boost up the turbo to 12-14psi and get some good power. That would hit about $1200 if you were doing the labour yourself.

After that when you get bored of that, you will be well placed to do a proper aftermarket/retuned ECU and larger turbo.

dump + front pipe and make sure the rest of the exhaust flows well..

Then maybe a dual stage boost controller to run 8psi and 12psi? Save some fuel on low boost, abit more power on high boost..

The idea of an rb25 turbo is a good one aswell however, only problem is with a stock cooler you wont be able to boost it up too far and get the full potential out of it. Maybe save for a FMIC + install aswell?

bleed valve set at 10 psi,pod filter/high flow pannel filter with cold air feed if you can, walbro pump,perhaps a rising rate regulator,re tuned ecu.that should set u back $1000 dollars.

Then i would go to free up your stock dump pipe with a aftermarket item,intercooler kits are next to nothing these days,and then a better boost controller turbo smart etc.

You should save your pennies and get a intercooler with the upgrade and a turbosmart 2 stage boost controller.Less than another $1000 and you could run more boost.:D

HTH..

yeah i get dump pipe and front pipe, u can get apexi stainless steel front pipe ($400) and a Tomei stain less steel dump pipe ($300), then i get cold air intake with proper heat shields.. and that makes a grand!!! if u wanna up the boost u'd to get FMIC and boost controller...

best thing to do mate is, 3"system from turbo back = $500-600.

intercooler + piping = $500

if any cash left over get an pod fillter or a $50 bleed value boost tap

with these mods it should add 50-60kw's

Jaycar Boost controller, DFA (AFR controller) and hand controller - $200, but you'll need to buy an r33 gtst boost solenoid ($40?). Rest of exhaust. ($400) Then get it tuned.

get air out b4 you put air in. sort out exhaust first(ie dumppipe. Preferable SPLIT) , then some CAI, then save for a cooler. once you done that. EBC. injectors (GTR,RX7) pump (910 or GTR) FPR then replace turbo if you wanna stay cheap maybe rb25 or vg30 but something like a 2530 or 40 is ideal. see if you can find an stainless manifold for cheap 500ish. then get a tune

If i had a prityt muc stocl 32 gts-t with a g

I would look for a second hand turbo something bb and alot bigger then a 33 turbo i put one on my old 32 wasnt happy.

One rule do it once do it right

If thats over the top go finoish your zorst get bleed valve and pod.

then save ya money then buy fmic and get bigger turbo then tune.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?
    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
    • F my life. I was changing the oil on my R32 GTR today as usual and ran into a bit of a snag. I drained the oil out and was getting ready to finish the job by tightening the drain plug, however The stupid magnetic oil drain plug snapped in half, right at the magnet part. After about an hour of trying to remove it, I used a drill bit, which unfortunately pushed the magnet all the way into the pan, and just leaving the hollow threaded part of the bolt remaining. I was able to remove the hollow portion of the bolt from the oil pan with some pliers but the magnet is still in there.  So, the question is, should I drop the oil pan to get the magnet piece out, or is it okay to leave it in there? I really dont want to drop the pan, i'm about to go nuts.  PSA: Do NOT buy a BLOX magnetic drain plug. This is the one i had.    https://bloxracing.com/products/magnetic-oil-drain-plug-m12x1-25mm?variant=37131252859052&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw47i_BhBTEiwAaJfPpgti1D2JwO7TDuMpXuqeQPCuIQSAfwxpWQH5rF9MD7sm5SCZDWLR_RoC_YoQAvD_BwE    
×
×
  • Create New...