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R32 spacer schematics here


predator
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  • 2 months later...
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I used the cut diagram in the first post but the holes are way off, is this for a r32 4door because mines a 2dr.

I've checked the black dots on the paper cut out under the PDF piece and they are right on the money but for some reason on the car they don't align with all the holes.

Any help appreciated.

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Hi,

Definitely for R32 2 door (1989)

To be honest, I have not tried printing it out, as I own no printer, but somebody else said that they had used it successfully above.

Have you measured all the dimensions on your MDF to ensure that each of the measurements is the same on the diagram?

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Hi,

Definitely for R32 2 door (1989)

To be honest, I have not tried printing it out, as I own no printer, but somebody else said that they had used it successfully above.  

Have you measured all the dimensions on your MDF to ensure that each of the measurements is the same on the diagram?

Yeah i made sure all the lengths were correct but the holes didn't line up 100%.

Probably just a off centre drill (didn't have a drill press) but i worked it out.

Thanks.

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Hi,

Definitely for R32 2 door (1989)

To be honest, I have not tried printing it out, as I own no printer, but somebody else said that they had used it successfully above.  

Have you measured all the dimensions on your MDF to ensure that each of the measurements is the same on the diagram?

They are slightly off but not that far. Very easy to fix if you just counter sink the screws as well :uh-huh:

Although having said that i couldn't get over the difference for the 2door install to the 4 door install.

WIll post up pics and info in another thread so im not hijacking Predator's thread :innocent:

Cheers B

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  • 8 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

the old speakers have plastic spacers that come out...you're removing those and fitting these wooden ones of about the same thickness.

The skins go on, and you wouldn't know that I had 6" speakers in there. The skin is screwed to the bottom of the door as per normal, and the bottom right toggle is still used.

Pics would only show it looking as per factory with the skins back on.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I used this yesterday to get my install done. It's all ended up working well but the diagram needed some modification. I think the mounting holes for the OEM speaker bracket are done after manufacture by whoever is screwing it in, so they all end up in a slightly different place for each car. Either way, the diagram really helped so thanks a lot.

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  • 11 months later...

sorry to re-bump and old thread but the links are broken again

can someone pm me them please?

also is it worth doing this or modify the stock bracket to accept some 5x7's? i've been doing some measuring and i reckon with some spacers they'd fit (not sure about door skin clearance)

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  • 2 months later...

hey,

sorry for the really late reply but i was wondering if you could re-up the pic or send it to me.

thanks, would really appreciate it

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  • 1 year later...

thread revival..

does anyone have an after-shot of 6.5 splits into their r32 doors?

i noticed from the sticky that:

"R32 - 4x6" front, 6.5" rear (Plate in front doors will see a 6" in there)"

just wondering how much it will effect the factory grill with that extra 0.5", I dont want to alter the look of it, not keen to hack up a chunk out of it to fit the 6.5's otherwise ill leave them as is.

would i be better off with 6"?

(tossing up between 6.5 alpine type R splits or 6" JL C2 splits)

Regards,

Yao

Edited by okooko
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  • 2 weeks later...

thanks for the template. Seems to work a treat. Just getting the right mounting screws and then I will find out if the door trim goes back on. I am using 12mm MDF with Alpine Type S 6.5" splits.

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Well considering there is no Edit button that I could see here are the photos of the template in use. I haven't screwed the speakers in yet as I haven't wired up the car yet but everything seems to fit fine. Sorry about the crap quality, was taken on an Iphone 3g. As others have said some of the screw holes don't line up, I was able to line up the top 2 holes but redrilled holes for the bottom 2 screws. I'm not very good with woodwork so this is just evidence that anybody can make and install these pods. As mentioned earlier when printing out the template do it in Illustrator and make sure there is no scaling on and if your printer is like mine and doesn't print the bottom line don't panic because the diagonal lines going to that part work out to be 70mm to the edge of the paper so just bust your ruler out and line up the diagonal line and finish the line to the edge of the paper.

pod1.th.jpgpod2.th.jpgpod3.th.jpg

the door trim sits tight against the speaker using the 12mm MDF but there was no need to try and force the trim on. Also you have plenty of clearance for the power windows as well. This is installed on a 93 GTS-T 2 Door. No modification to the "Active Speaker" grills needed either.

Edited by Triptych
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I'm beginning to think that there are 2 types of 2 door R32 front speaker hole styles. The template and it's holes were nothing like mine (R32 GTS-T 1990). I created my own template and here is a pic for reference and comparison with predator's. Also I am pretty sure i have the same door style as raz0r$harP.UK as stated in post #12. I used 12mm MDF from Bunnings and the door trim will not go over it.

post-71802-1282403743_thumb.jpg

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Lets see if we can work out where things are going wrong for some people. Did early and late models come out with the"Active Speaker" grills because I thought I saw somewhere that early models didn't have the Active Speaker but of course I could be wrong.

If somebody who couldn't get this template to work could upload their stock plastic speaker surround it might help us out a little bit more. Now the holes were not perfect on mine either I could get the 2 top holes to line up but had to redrill the bottom 2 (was only a few mm off) but as I said I had no issue with the door trim. You may have notice how far back I countersunk the screws on my pod but that was mistake by buying screws that were to short.

Here are the stock plastic pods from my 93 R32 GTS-T 2 door with active speaker grill.

post-27369-1282533840_thumb.jpg

Front

post-27369-1282534128_thumb.jpg

Back

Also don't forget to countersink your screws as well because remember you adding a few more mm's on top of the 12mm MDF leaving the screws sitting above the wood.

[EDIT] After reading through the post again maybe it isn't a year model difference. Hmm I wonder where things are going wrong for some people.

Edited by Triptych
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Well, i was measuring and all yesterday. My speaker didn't actually fit in the speaker door hole (hole was cut too high i guess), the top bit of the new speaker was interfereing with the door skin cave in (as it added extra mm). Measured the gap in the cave in and it was roughly 9mm, so the 12mm would've been hitting/touching the door skins anyways. I actually have screws that are too long lol.

Yes I do have 'active speakers' and yes the plastic OEM moulds look exactly the same.

Edited by TyresBro
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