O2 Sensor. -> RB20DET

[Cubes]

I called nissan.

$185 :eek:

OMG...

Called Sprint Autoparts on a price for a EF-EL NGK one and $75

I'm going to give NGK a call tomorrow for a part number or if they do make one with a plug to suit the RB20DET.

If all else fails the ford one will be the go.

Any other ideas what it will be compat with?

[Doctor]

keep me posted what difference it makes to power and fuel economy.

Doc

[Cubes]

Apparently mine is buggered at the moment as when the car is cold there is a bit of a dead spot when cruising or very light throttle. Only for the first km or two.

At the moment i don't get any less than around 420km's per tank usually when take it easy i get close to 500km's.

I think the preheat part in the sensor must be buggered..?!?!

[Guest LaureL_RB20DET]

check this:

http://www.geocities.com/davehoos/cnor31.html

[blind_elk]

Originally posted by Doctor

keep me posted what difference it makes to power and fuel economy.

Doc

Won't make any difference to power. It only works on constant throttle, ie highway cruise.

[Cubes]

I spoke to NGK and after a couple of days they got back to me.

Apparently they havn't got a listing anywhere for a R32.

Nissan apparently do order parts from them but they don't tell them what they are for and unfortunately he said use the specified O2 sensor as each one has different parameters for example heating something when shutting down the motor.

He said to me to get the origional or even see if I can see a part number stamped on the o2 sensor that may start with a NG or somthing then get back to him..

Using a different O2 sensor is dodgy he thinks.. otherwise they would simply make one universal o2 sensor and not worry about different part numbers..

gotta go... .

[Ait]

Originally posted by -Joel-

Apparently mine is buggered at the moment as when the car is cold there is a bit of a dead spot when cruising or very light throttle. Only for the first km or two.

At the moment i don't get any less than around 420km's per tank usually when take it easy i get close to 500km's.

I think the preheat part in the sensor must be buggered..?!?!

Hi Joel, how do I tell my O2 sensor's been buggered?

[Ait]

Abit off topic here. Just enquiring if any of you has plugged a fuel pressure gauge to watch the pressure drop overnight. How much does it drop by? Is 10psi alot? A sign of leaky injectors or faulty fuel pump?

[blind_elk]

I used to have one connected. It would drop to 0 in about an hour. My current pump (Bosch motorsport) drops immediately you turn the engine off, 'coz it doesn't have the non-return valve.

Nothing wrong with it losing pressure. That's why the pump runs for about 5 seconds when you switch ignition to ON, just to re-pressurise the fuel rails.

[Ait]

But does the stock fuel pump have a non-return valve too? It is suppose to return to drop significantly when you turn off the engine?

I wonder if that's causing the strange startup. When I turn on the car on mornings, she seems to weakly startup, to about 400rpm like as if its going to stall for a split second before firing up to 1000rpm. Anyone had that before?

[Cubes]

To tell if the O2 sensor is buggered, is a hard one.

Maybe a read out of the ecu codes.

A bit off topic ..

I was driving along in 35degree heat with the AC on today one minute the temp guage is sitting on half then all of a sudden it starts to creep up. Off goes the AC on goes the heater on the FC setting and then the temp dropped around to the 3/4 mark.

It got as high as the line that is under the H.

Then all of a sudden it drops back to half again.

AC back on.. All is fine for a while then up she goes again.

I replaced the Thermostat (just finished it) with a motormate special from a VL Commodore. it was 24.95

Slapped it in and touch wood i can let her idle and idle without the temp guage creeping at all. (twin thermo's)

If the Thermostat had decided to stay shut it could have been a motor.

so... Replace your thermostat at around 100,000km's. i've done 115,000km's.

-----------------------------

AIT... With the start thingo is that once it kicks over.?

mine sometimes splutters for half a sec or so at 400rpm then brooms up to 1000rpm..

I've come to accept it. as long as it doesn't get worse.

it does it probably once every 3 days or so when stone cold

[Cubes]

Oh and also.. You wouldn't want to replace the Thermostat's housing, its called the inlet i think.. From nissan $70.

The Rb20det's one is a little longer than the Rb30 one.

Maybe the R31's Inlet is the same?!? i might have to have a look.

If that fails maybe the VL Commodores/R31's bottom (inlet) hose would adapt if you use the VL commodres/R31's inlet housing ($19.95)

Any1?

[Ait]

AIT... With the start thingo is that once it kicks over.?

mine sometimes splutters for half a sec or so at 400rpm then brooms up to 1000rpm..

I've come to accept it. as long as it doesn't get worse.

it does it probably once every 3 days or so when stone cold [/b]

Actually mine does exactly that! What the heck is wrong? Mine does that everyday actually. That's why I thought is it anything to do with a dying fuel pump or leaky injectors? But only on the first start of the day.

[Cubes]

Plugs?

...

Replaced the Thermostat.. No difference.

Tim from RPM thinks that it is due to not enough air being able to get to the Radiator due to the 2.5" FMIC.

Hence why it only does it on 30+ degree days, and locally 80km's or under.

I have a gut feeling it could be a dirty radiator, even though it was only rodded 8 or 9 months ago.

Then again the std radiator is pretty small and poxy.

[Ait]

Startup thingy caused by plugs? I just had new ones placed in a few months back

It's annoying me. Do you get weird idles at the traffic lights?

[Cubes]

It used to before I cleaned my AAC Valve.

It used to bounce from 400 to 800, then eventually get lower and lower until almost stalling.

It also still pops and carries on a bit with the plugs I run, if i drop the idle to around 600rpm.

650 or 700rpm and it idles smooth.

i'm running slightly colder plugs which is most probably the cause of this as the old plats where the standard heat range of 5 and would never pop or miss slightly on a low idle.

Also when my AAC valve was playing up (gummed up) putting the coppers in made matters worse.

I think the plugs i'm running are BCPR6ES or somthing.

Do a search on the AAC valve, give it a clean. All up it should cost you around $6 for the can of carbi-clean and some gasket paper $4, providing you have a stanley knife.

[Ait]

I'm quite sure the AAC valve was cleaned when I sent it for servicing the last time. Specially told my mechanic to do that for me.

Anyway I did some driving today and realised that the erratic idling starts when I turn on the headlights and then PRESSED and held the brakes! The idle starts going between 600 and 800. How could the brakes be drawing so much electricity that it would do that? I just had a new heavy duty battery put in and it still didn't make much of a difference. WHat's wrong? The alternator?

[teka]

It's funny that you say that, because I actually had this problem for about a year, then it got worse and the stereo would switch off when I put my foot on the brake along with the erratic idle I checked that bat and alternator voltages to cut along story short it ended up being a voltage drop between the alternator and the batt, I ran a new cable, fixed

[Ait]

Originally posted by teka

It's funny that you say that, because I actually had this problem for about a year, then it got worse and the stereo would switch off when I put my foot on the brake along with the erratic idle I checked that bat and alternator voltages to cut along story short it ended up being a voltage drop between the alternator and the batt, I ran a new cable, fixed

Run a new cable between alternator and battery? It solved the problem? Did you try increasing the idle speed too?