Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just trying to get the Air/fuel ratio close on my car so i can drive it to the tuner (4 hours drive :D )

I understand the Apexi turbo timers is just an estimate but is there a way to get it close enough so i can drive my car to get it tuned, trailering it is out of the option too!

How do you set up the O2 voltage my car at idle reads 1020v (on the power FC) theres no 1020v setting on the APexi TT!!!!!

Can anyone help me out???

Thanks

Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71307-apexi-pen-turbo-timer-af-tune/
Share on other sites

the 02 reads between 0.00mv and 0.10mv or 1.00mv. I think you are referring the airflow meter value? AF in the sensor display is airflow meter and it will be around 1.00volts at idle (its max value is 5.00volts). The pen timer needs to have its wire tapped into the cars ecu loom (02 wire which is oxygen sensor not airflow meter). once that is doen you can with handbrake pulled up move to a/f o/2 on the timer press right and then it will show theoritical value then press left, move up to a/f, press right and it will show a/f and then flash to oxygen sensor value and then back again. once its working when you move the timer to display a/f instead of it showing --- and light changing from green/red constantly it will show like 18.5 or higher at idle and "green" for lean and then when you drive it should hover around 13.0 ish and god mixed between orange and red for rich. if you still have --- no matter what make sure when you move the timer to display oxygen (the 2nd item of the four) it has a value and the value is changing all the time, thats the oxygen sensor value. if its 0 or --- then its not wired in correctly or the 02 sensor is dead. they die after about 50,000 k ish

I understand its unaccurate, but i thought i could at least get it close! That doesnt help me out though!!!

Anyone got any ideas on how to get a close read out??? as 4 hours is along way to drive when the cars either rich or lean! i dont wanna damage it on the way there!

Ok i understand now.

You have upgraded the injectors.

Therfore the standard ecu won't run it (it will overfuel by a mile)

However, in the powerFC, there is an option which will trim the entire base map to suit larger injectors, without changing every parameter. (Have to do a search, im not familiar with the powerfc, to find what setting you have to change)

If you don't change this, it will overfuel with the bigger injectors, the same as what will happen with the stock ecu.

Do you have the Turbo Timer wired up to the O2 sensor at all?

If it is wired up it will give the feedback from the standard "Narrow Band" O2 sensor.

However i wouldn't use this sensor to tune, its highly innacurate at anything but stoich ratio's.

Yep the stock computer runs very rich, very very rich as the injectors are upgraded!

yeah i have changed the whole map in the Power FC so that it is close, but all i did was change the injector flow down untill it stoped belching black smoke out the exhaust!

On the power FC i had to bump the injector flow down to 44% (base map is 100%) as it was overfueling!

The timer is wired up to the 02 sensor (exhaust sensor) im getting a readout but it says like 12.8 and then i read that you can alter the setting of the O2 read out, something-arother about depending on the voltage of the o2 senser!

If i have the car running rich (like as close as i can tell, by bumping the whole flow up and down) would it be fine to drive???? can any harm happen from running the car rich?

My cars been out of action for 5 months now, so as you can imagine im itching to get it tuned and back on the road...My R31 just doesnt cut it :rofl:

If you have the maps trimmed down so they are close, what you will find is under light load driving (i.e off boost) it will be running in closed loop operation and maintaining a stoich ratio of 14.7:1 and your plugs won't foul.

(Closed loop is where the ecu uses the feedback from the 02 sensor to trim the injector pulse to keep a stoich ratio, minimising emissions and maximising economy)

So if you drive under that condition, it should be fine.

If it were a brand new motor just rebuilt, i would advise against running it rich as the rings won't bed properly and this needs to happen in the first few hundred km's of driving.

If the motor has just had bolt ons applied, i wouldn't worry to much.

Just drive it offboost so it can run in closed loop and your plugs wont foul.

If you boost it and the plugs foul, you may not get the car there without removing and cleaning them.

Not a job you really want to do on the side of the road.

Running it a little rich is safer than having it lean out; I suppose, at the worst, you'll just foul your 'plugs up a bit and lose a bit of power on the run there. The former is easily fixed, and the latter is basically redundant as you're getting it tuned anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
×
×
  • Create New...