Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a series 1 turbo taken from my r33 RB25DET skyline. The car has done 150,000kms and from what i can tell the turbo is origional.

PLEASE NOTE: The compressor wheel is not made from the plastic/nylon gear the compressor wheel is made from steel and only looks black in the pics due to a shitty cammera and dirt build up. The model number on the turbo is 45V3.

The car blows absolutly NO SMOKE. The turbo has minimal shaft play approx 1-1.5mm back and forward. The turbo does not come with bend pipe, water lines, oil lines and is missing the actuator.

The turbo was taken off by B&R Motorsport up here in Brisbane, for upgrade to GT30, and i was told that they broke the actuator when the pulled it off.

This turbo makes an awsome upgrade for the RB20DET as it bolts straight on. The actuator from the RB20DET turbo will also fit on to this turbo.

I am looking for $200 + Postage OR a clean swap for an Exhaust Manifold either Low mount or High mount, preferably Low, either new or used that is in good condition that will fit the RB25DET factory turbo and RB25DET Head.

Brisbane and sorrounding area buyers can also have a look at the turbo before purchase if that helps.

Sorry about the pics they are taken by cammera fone and there as good as it gets.

Thanks for looking.

Greg.

P.s. I allready have a factory low mount manifold, i'm after a stainless steel one. Thanks for the offers anyway.

hey mate i am also in brisbane very interested.

is it still for sale.

when are you free to come and have a look ???

thanks look forward to here from you soon

email reply to [email protected]

or sms me on 0404739079

The turbo does not come with bend pipe, water lines, oil lines and is missing the actuator.

can you read??? or is fidel too busy smoking too many wacky cigars??!

  • 2 months later...

hey mate, ill take the turbo if you still have it, i am taking my hiflowed unit off and need a standard one to replace it so i can sell the car. i need it asap.

cheers

Linton

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...