Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by Hicks

G'day all.

I rang auto clutch today, For the good Ceramic 2500 lbs its $550.00 which I think is pretty damn cheap. Then another $200 for installation.

Should have my car back on the road in a week or so.

Mate thats the way to go.:P

2500lbs pressure plate is a bit of a leg breaker. It may not be to your taste if you have never driven a car with one before. Ross does a 2000lb version thats not too much more than stock but has plenty of extra clamping pressure.

Just think about it... or better still ask someone nicely to have a turn of their car with a 2500lb pressure plate and see if you will like it. (personally I don't think you will need it unless you are going to tow a boat). ;)

I got the works, 2500 pound pressure plate and the 9 finger metal spring loaded plate. Its been in now for about a month and I think I'm finally used to the extra effort required to push on the clutch. It takes some time getting used to as rev210 says maybe go with the 2000 pound pressure plate it'll save your legs :P

That sounds like the go Hicks. My mate only has twin-plates for pull type assemblies (R32 GTR's), not push type which you need. He says the guys at autoclutch are very good, and it seems everyone is in agreeance with that.

He did say, and this is open to anyone, that he has 5 factory clutches that need rebuilding, and therefore if anyone wants to use one to get rebuilt while they are still driving on there's then it would keep you on the road. So if you feeling like you need to replace your clutch then we can give you one to have built into a 2500lb monster, and then take your crappy clutch back off you once the new one is fitted.

Let me know if anyone wants to do this.

Hope your on the road soon Hicks.

See'ya :burnout:

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

That sounds like the go Hicks. My mate only has twin-plates for pull type assemblies (R32 GTR's), not push type which you need.  

See'ya :burnout:

Err , you mean PUSH type for R32 GTR's and not PULL type like R33 's and late R32 GTR's

Ken

Originally posted by 25GTT

Also is Macka still running standard clutch? I still am and as a result have to launch quite nicely.... hence the reason while no quarter mile times..... after nect couple of engine mods are done loks like the next thing will be the clutch!

Hey...

No im not running the standard clutch and yes its cactus!

Autoclutch 2500lb pressure plate bla bla, works good! good take up but it only lasted 5000kms for me.

I think if you want 300hp+ i wouldnt bother as that clutch isnt the answer to all your problems ewven if u may think so to start with what about 3 or 6 months down the track.

Hicks and GTS_VSPEC u guys deserve each other! :P

Macka,

How stuffed is your clutch? I take it you can still drive on the street no problems, so the 2500lb clutch's aren't up to 300+hp and drag racing. I did think the 450hp was a bit optimistic, but I suppose it depends how you drive it, drag racing will put alot more stress than normal hard driving.

If your after a twin-plate I'll keep my ears and eyes open and let you know if ones available.

See'ya:burnout:

Originally posted by macka

Hey...

No im not running the standard clutch and yes its cactus!

Autoclutch 2500lb pressure plate bla bla, works good! good take up but it only lasted 5000kms for me.

I think if you want 300hp+ i wouldnt bother as that clutch isnt the answer to all your problems ewven if u may think so to start with what about 3 or 6 months down the track.

Hicks and GTS_VSPEC u guys deserve each other! :D

Macka, did you use the 9 puck one or the uprated organic plate ?

The puck one seems to hold together with a GTR so am surprised if ya killed one of those in 3 mths

Ken

Originally posted by gtrken

Macka, did you use the 9 puck one or the uprated organic plate ?

The puck one seems to hold together with a GTR so am surprised if ya killed one of those in 3 mths

Ken

Gday Ken

Im not really sure i was under the impression it was just the organic upgrade...

Whatever Dan (imacul8) had i got too :D

If it's from Autoclutch it would normally be either a 9 puck Brass button or an upgraded ( read asbestos ) plate.

Ross doesn't do ceramic normally and if you have a smell of burning , like when you have hammered the brakes, then it will be an upgraded fibre one.

Ken

Originally posted by gtrken

If it's from Autoclutch it would normally be either a 9 puck Brass button or an upgraded ( read asbestos ) plate.

Ross doesn't do ceramic normally and if you have a smell of burning , like when you have hammered the brakes, then it will be an upgraded fibre one.

Ken

Thatll be the one.

I told Ross how much horsepower i had n may possibly get and what i was gonna do with it and thats what I got.......

A BBQ!

Hicks, are you going to go back to the plex and atleast show people that your Skyline can smoke the tyres rather than destroy the clutch. It was quite funny to see when you actually thought the tyres were turning !! Hope to see another fine burnout performance soon dude.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...