Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day all.

I need some help with the following. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I have decided to build a box to the specifications recomended with the subwoofer. It is a Pioneer TS something 300C (the one with the really fat cone surround and carbon-fibre centre cap.

The car is a 1990 GTS-t. It is still in Japan. I'm waiting for import approval. I'm currently running the sub in my old subbie box which is a lot larger and has no chance fitting in the shallow boot of the skyline. I'm looking to design a box now because the pioneer in its current box sounds like crap, and I want to be able to put it in the car first thing.

I'd prefer to maintain maximum boot space so I want the subbie to sit back as far as possible. I can use the whole width and height of the boot, with the length of the boot the adjusting factor.

My question is, is the maximum height and width of the box ( say, just before it hits the Hicas box and slides nicely as far back as possible past the strut towers.

I took a look at a r32 GTR boot yesterday and he had the stock boot floor insulation and that looked like it was almost two inches thick! Is it worth keeping for any reason? The taller I can make the box, the less distance it has to come outwards.

I estimated the maximum width would be about 50cm between the two strut towers and maximum height to be around 25 cm between the insulated floor and the hicas box. Any variations to that? Anything that might make that smaller?

Any other recomendations to what I could do? I'd like to keep my space saver though.

Thank for your help people. :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71359-r32-boot-minimum-dimensions/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
G'day all.  

 

I need some help with the following. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

I have decided to build a box to the specifications recomended with the subwoofer. It is a Pioneer TS something 300C (the one with the really fat cone surround and carbon-fibre centre cap.  

 

The car is a 1990 GTS-t. It is still in Japan. I'm waiting for import approval. I'm currently running the sub in my old subbie box which is a lot larger and has no chance fitting in the shallow boot of the skyline. I'm looking to design a box now because the pioneer in its current box sounds like crap, and I want to be able to put it in the car first thing.  

 

I'd prefer to maintain maximum boot space so I want the subbie to sit back as far as possible. I can use the whole width and height of the boot, with the length of the boot the adjusting factor.  

 

My question is, is the maximum height and width of the box ( say, just before it hits the Hicas box and slides nicely as far back as possible past the strut towers.  

 

I took a look at a r32 GTR boot yesterday and he had the stock boot floor insulation and that looked like it was almost two inches thick! Is it worth keeping for any reason? The taller I can make the box, the less distance it has to come outwards.  

 

I estimated the maximum width would be about 50cm between the two strut towers and maximum height to be around 25 cm between the insulated floor and the hicas box. Any variations to that? Anything that might make that smaller?

 

Any other recomendations to what I could do? I'd like to keep my space saver though.  

 

Thank for your help people. :P

Im in the same situation at the moment and wondering what way to go, have you thought about a bazooka style tube for the sub? Doesn't take up much room, easy to make (once you know how) and doesn't cost much. Very light and easy to move and can fit anywhere you want it to go in the back of the GTS-t

thats not a bad idea grandmasterb,

I would take it into consideration, but I needed to give my mate the dimensions of the box about a week ago, so I gave him a design for a 'wedge' type box which should hopefully be almost as high as the boot, sit as far back in the boot as possible, span the width of the boot (between the strut towers) and come out towards the back of the car.

I've had to go on the very rough estimate i took when i looked at the boot of a r32 gtr. it had an inch or two of padding so that distorts things a bit.

The end result should be a box which is designed perfectly to the subbies specifcations, hopefully just small enough to fit in the back of the boot with no problems.

The picture attached shows the measurements and what i mean if want to design something similar.

I used the caraudioaustralia.com calculator as a tool. its very useful for designing basic subbie boxes.

Good luck with your own subbie box.

thats not a bad idea grandmasterb,

 

I would take it into consideration, but I needed to give my mate the dimensions of the box about a week ago, so I gave him a design for a 'wedge' type box which should hopefully be almost as high as the boot, sit as far back in the boot as possible, span the width of the boot (between the strut towers) and come out towards the back of the car.  

 

I've had to go on the very rough estimate i took when i looked at the boot of a r32 gtr. it had an inch or two of padding so that distorts things a bit.  

 

The end result should be a box which is designed perfectly to the subbies specifcations, hopefully just small enough to fit in the back of the boot with no problems.  

 

The picture attached shows the measurements and what i mean if want to design something similar.  

I used the caraudioaustralia.com calculator as a tool. its very useful for designing basic subbie boxes.  

 

Good luck with your own subbie box.

Yeah mate pity you didn't post it up a little earlier, i ahve thought long and hard about the limited boot space and the tube style sub box just seems to be the best option for me. Let us know how ya go with your boot install and when i get some free time and get my act together i'll let ya know how i go. By the way your car looks extremly familar :cheers: i think i still ahve pics of it actually on my computer somewhere? Send me a PM with ya email mate and i'll send em your way if ya like? :)

The picture attached shows the measurements and what i mean if want to design something similar.

I used the caraudioaustralia.com calculator as a tool. its very useful for designing basic subbie boxes.

yeah, thats what i used to build my 12" box a while back.. it was a great tool. unfortunately at the time I built it so the height was as high as possible to save on the other dimensions.. unfortunately for me I sold my R33, and now have an R32, and it doesn't fit! Anybody want to buy a nice 12" box to suit an R33 ? ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, Apologies in advance if this feels like a topic covered multiple times. I'm only asking because some of the old topics I found are missing images now. I'm in the process of getting a manual boost controller (BC). Nothing fancy, just getting a manual one for now as I don't plan to go crazy with it and would not go over 10 PSI. My car is not jacked up on boost steroids to do crazy numbers. I want to understand the OEM setup of the boost solenoid and vacuum lines on the R34 GTT so I know what needs to be changed when I do install the BC. I sketched the current setup to the best I could see and it's on the diagram attached. If the boost controller 'Wastegate Arrow' goes from nipple 1 to 2. My understanding is that the red vacuum line's "F" connector-end should be connected to BC nipple #2? Nipple #1 is meant to have the "pressure source" so what vacuum line would that be? Is it the green vacuum line?  From what I have read here, the OEM boost solenoid is not used at this point. So that can come out and then I can just plug the nipple that usually connects to the blue vacuum line?  So would the final setup look something like this?   Thanks in advance. I don't want to already be knee-deep into pulling out vacuum lines before understanding this. I'm a noob when it comes to boost setups so trying to learn as I go.
    • Initial/early bite is a feature of.....generic pads. Things that work cold. Just put Bendix Ultimate in it. If you don't like them, it's only $3.50 wasted and an hour to change them. I've been using Intima SR, and they seem to be a good performance pad. Street friendly and able to take at least a little beating.
    • This is my first post after registering.. I hope i can find useful resources on this forum. Great forum. 
    • As I implied in my post, I have NO idea what the were. But in case I didn't make it clear, the way they performed was brilliant; whatever the brand was. I think it was the compound that made the difference. And if they were Bendix, then sign me up, I want another set. I did drive down mount Ousley (just outside of the Gong) a few times, and they showed no untowards performance.   Its not the low dust that I am looking for NOW. At the time I needed low dust, but now I have no issues with dust but want the initial/early bite of the pads that were used. Yeah, the early cold squeal may of been due to a missing shim or such.  And to repeat, its not the low dust I am seeking, its the initial bite of the pads and increase in bite as  the warmed up during each breaking. As soon as I let off, I don't remember the breaks being extra sticky if I used them again soon after. But I also did not test that theory.   Thanks for the recommendation, But I would prefer to choose something specifically with the behaviour I described.   I assume that they didn't use the default compound off the shelf, as we discussed the dust issue at length. And the early squeal when cold, I have seen the sound is more of an issue with some pad compounds. Mostly ceramic, which also are said to produce less dust.
    • Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
×
×
  • Create New...