Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As per topic.

Sound deadening the Cef. I want to do it once, and I want to do it properly. First thing, Im not going to do it myself. I get far too frustrated working on cars, especially when I have NO idea on what Im doing.

So far my research has come up with using dynamat or a similar product, and from what I could understand from what I was reading you kind of want to make the hollow of the door your effective speaker box. This meaning you have to basically fill up all the holes in it?

Anyway, my questions are.

Where to go,

What to use,

How much I should be paying, (Id just be doing the two front doors).

Anything inparticular I should be asking said company to do/not do.

Anything else I should know.

Also, I have MB Quart splits, so they can handle a bit of power, hence Im not using them properly due to the insane abount of door rattles.

Thanks!

hi dangerous

i did both my doors and under the rear seats. i used serenity max but any quality sound deadener will do the trick.

it is very do-able if you can get the door trims off the Ceffy (i have an R33 so i am unsure of the differences on removing the trim).

if you go to www.fhrxstudios.com there are some pics of FHRX's installs if you do a bit of a search. (in "images of interest" in the 'images' page)

it will take about 30mins-45 mins/door taking your time.

i think i wrote a DIY guide somewhere here. a search might find it. if not i can take the door trim off and take some snaps and email them to you.

this is the best improvement you can make for your sound system under $120.

The one I read was using mdf cut outs to fill in gaps in the door webbing/structural stuff. And he was talking about using tar as well as the mat things???

I should also probably mention Id be getting the tweeters re-aimed, and the drivers remounted properly so they have some kind of angle on them. IE something a pro should do a hell of a lot quicker than me.

what price for the frustration....err....satisfaction of doing it yourself.

the offcuts can be pinned to the skin of the door itselt. i presume the paint is a great option but for $100 ish this works a treat.

is your speaker mounted on mdf?? i guess that's what you were reading?!?

No sorry, the speakers are just in the stock positions. So I guess on to the metal? orginal screw holes. I didnt install it, I can make more money doing my job than wasting a day doing it myself :rofl: And yeah, the door skins do come off easy.

I did mine myself daveo - if you wanted photos of how I did it in the cef I could email them to you should you want to see them.

I think I used dynamat or something and I can't really remember but I got about 4kg of it from fhrx. Can't remember what he charged me for that cos I got a few other things too. I also used a couple of tiles of stinger roadkill which was a bit thinner but worked well where I needed it.

Probably takes a pro about 3 hrs? Wouldn't know how much they charge.

Good luck.

A few people have mentioned the sound deadening theory I wrote over PM's so I'll chuck the addy up here and some images:

This is the reason why we use sound deadening.

For images of what it should look like, Click here. :(

There are guides floating around of how to do entire doors too for various cars, some are:

http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/sh...ad.php?p=498227

http://forums.fastfours.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=92055

Hope that helps a little. :)

Fhrx, dude, that is AWESOME, thanks for that one. I gota admit, that is the way to do business alrite!

Still anyone got a rough idea of cost? Its more so I dont want to get ripped off. If I go in to a shop with a lot more idea of what they are ment to do (as I do to a point now) then yeah, less chance of getting done over.

But Fhrx man, thats bloody awesome hey, more so your service, you put the whole thing on a CD for them! How good is that!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
×
×
  • Create New...