Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo Upgrade - install woes? SAFC?

gatty

By gatty,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

gatty Mentor

gatty

Posted
Posted

hey guys

Mate just bought:

ITS TURBOCHARGER FOR SKYLINE R32/R33 GTS-T  

COMPLETE KIT INCLUDING ALL WATER AND OIL LINES AND DRAIN. BOLTS STRAIGHT ON TO FACTORY MANIFOLD & DUMP PIPE. GOOD FOR APPROXIMATELY 260KW AT THE WHEELS

from UAS - R33 auto - stock internals - BLITZ FMIC - cat back system - boost controll - POD, other than that it's stock. This turbo is T3 flange and will bolt straight up with little modifications etc etc

Once we get this thing on (he wants to do it) would it be right to run at about 5-10 PSI without some type of tuning? or should it be tuned right away kinda thing? He's planning on getting a SAFC or similar type thing such as unichip but should it be right to run as is?

We need to drive it atleast 100km's to the nearest dyno/tuner etc and it comes nex week so just wanting to see whats going to happen when we bolt this on, connect it up and start it - any other steps need to be done?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71483-turbo-upgrade-install-woes-safc/
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Just hook up the actuator line with no bleeder attached. You will have no problems running standard boost on this engine. The fuel reg will compensate for the rising pressure so it shouldn't be a problem. Just take it easy. Don't get all excited and put your boot into it first go. One or two detonations and say goodbye to your engine and pistons. Is the turbo going onto a non-turbo engine or onto an already turbo engine that he is upgrading?

Wind all windows up and turn stereo off. When you accellerate you will clearly hear if the engine is pinging. Just baby it around until the tune is done. My advise is also wait until the SAFC is fitted before you get the tune done. Just check the usuals. Make sure the oil supply line is connected correctly. Make sure the oil supply line where it bolts into the block has a VERY small hole where the oil travels otherwise you will lose oil pressure. Make sure the water and oil lines are all tight. Run the car for a good fifteen minutes and keep a close eye on the lines to make sure you get no leaks. Also try running with the dump pipe detached for that fifteen minutes so that you can see what the shaft is doing at idle and while revving. It should all spin freely. Air intake is also critical. If it is going onto a non-turbo then the intake will be different. If it is going onto an already turbo car, make sure it is the right size to fit the turbo. DO NOT compromise when it comes to this. Small amounts of dirt and sand can have devastating effects on turbos. Make sure the air is filtered by any means possible. When you first start the car, try leaving the oil supply line loose so that you know for sure that oil is getting to the turbo. This is crutial! If no oil is getting to the turbo you need to find out why. It should be ok and it might make a bit of a mess but it is far better to know then to find out the hard way.

Call me on 0419 770 716 if you have any dramas or need some verbal assistance.

gatty Mentor

gatty

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the replies

car is a series 1 GTST - the stock turbo went so he bought this one

the turbo he bought uses the stock oil/water lines - same flange etc so we'll be bolting it up then attaching lines and giving it a start with boost control set to 0 then see how it all goes

and about the dumppipe thats coming later ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...