Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's a 91 gts-t m-spec, with around 112,000kms. I've owned it for about 4 years and i'm the first owner in australia, was completely stock when I got it.

Engine mods: Front mount intercooler with stainles steal custom piping by chasers ( www.chasers.com ) , sard bov (not currently fitted), greddy catch can, pod filter, avc-r boost controller, bosch O40 fuel pump, ces split dump/front pipe, hi flow cat, apexi N1 cat back exhaust.

Transmission: Rebuilt auto by yarra valley autos, with shift kit and stall convertor, still under warranty, also has transmission cooler.

Suspension: Front strut brace, adjustable front castor rods, JIC Magic FLA-2 coilovers ( http://www.jic-magic.com ) around 6,000kms old, HICAS lock bar, pinapples.

Stereo: JVC double din head unit, with 6" pioneers in the front and pioneer 6x9"s in the back.

Body: Aftermarket front and rear bars with side skirts, nismo bootlip spolier with holes from standard spoiler welded up and painted.

Wheels: Fondmetal 9A's 17x8 light weight wheels ( www.fondmetal.com ) with silverstone tyres in excellent condition.

Interior is in excellent condition.

Have all stock parts for the car too.

Car will be sold with Road Worthty Certificate

Looking for around $15,000 or nearest offer for it

E-mail: [email protected] or pm me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71517-91-r32-gts-t-for-sale/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Everything I found online said never use it because it'll dramatically reduce belt lifespan.  No, but I have seen excessive v-belt tension cause the audible bearing noise from excessive radial load in things like alternators. So don't overdo it. Ideally you set it to manufacturer spec using a proper belt tension guage. I tried the "clicker" type gauges but those cheap things are trash. They read way too low even when you're careful.
    • This is kind of where I've ended up for the most part. It's easier for me, easier for shops that don't have to deal with my weird criteria/picky standards, etc.
    • Will do. Suprised if it's not the starter motor considering it's 30 years old. Will get a volt meter though. Battery is close to new.   Cheers for your help, always appreciated.
    • This almost never happens these days. No. Clean your battery terminals and make sure they are tight. Use sandpaper on a dowel if you have to, to get oxidation off the inside of the terminals, particularly on the -ve. Check the earth cable from battery post to chassis ground and engine ground. Make sure the contact surfaces are clean - including the threads on the bolts that anchor them - because that's where a lot of the contact occurs. Wire wheel on a drill is a good thing for this. Make sure the crimps on those cables are all sound. Assuming none of that causes an improvement: Check the battery voltage after it has been resting for a while. If it's at the lower end of the range, put it on charge for a while, then see if it will crank better.
    • I just checked my belt, it wasn't super loose but I could bend it past 90 degrees a small amount so I tightened it up and for the first time ever my car didn't crank first time, had to crank it again lol. Don't know if that was because I tightened the belt or if it's my starter motor going out (been having slow starts for some time). Coulda also been when I was recording I didn't crank the key properly and it didn't save the recording lol.   Is that a thing if you overtighten a belt it struggles to start?
×
×
  • Create New...