Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It has come to my attention that I am not paticularly au fait with gaskets and gasket goop.

Perhaps people could state only for things they know for sure the following.

What items were you bolting together.

What type of gasket did you use.

What is the gasket made of.

What kind of goop did you use and why.

If no goop, explain why this particular job requires no goop.

Any tips or tricks to the job?

Ok, I'll start.

I bolted the pan onto the bottom of the transmission.

I reused the old gasket because it was stuck quite well to the pan from when I took it off.

Don't know what it's made of but it looked like black thin cardboard.

I used Permatex No.3 (Actually I used Locktite No.3 but was told it is the same thing) because the auto transmission place told me to. They said it's a wet one that never hardens. The packet says you can use it on threads and still get them off later.

I'm interested to hear about cam cover jobs and oil drain pipe on the turbo.

Perhaps also, people who want to know what to use on a particular job could post a query in this thread which give some focus to the experts rather than just generally asking about gaskets and goop.

Anyone got any links to goop sites?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71559-gaskets-and-gasket-goop/
Share on other sites

im unsure if this post is a question or a statement???

are you asking what youshould be using or what??

here is a list on what gaskets and liquad gaskets i used putting my rb20det back together

1..the sump-- no geniunne gasket-- used ultra blue (maxx blue by loctite) engine turned upside down old gasket scraped off with blade or use gasket remover make sure all gasket removed use wet dry sand paper and inox to sand off any left over gasket wipe dry and cleanbead the ultra blue round the sump smear and bolt back to the engine

2.. oil filter adaptor to block-- genuinne nissan gasket paper-- used aviation cement--scrap off old gasket with blade sand the surface back with wet dry, clean, apply aviation cement to both sides of the paper gasket and sealin place and bolt back to block

3..thermastat--gennuine nissan paper--aviation cement-- same as above

4..water pump--no genuinne gasket--ultra blue-- same as sump

5..all water and oil fitting to the block ei..oil lines water lines ect...--used a product called "STAG" jointing paste-- clean all threads dry and apply the paste to the threads with minimum amout possible,screw to the block, why not thread tape well you can but found this alot more reliable can be used for all oil, water, air, and gas, fittings also steam, kero, beverage and foodstuffs

6..plenum--genuinne nissan paper--clean all surfaces and dry, bolt together

7..inlet manifold-- genuinne nissan paper--same as above

8..exhaust manifold--gen nissan--metal compressed gasket--bolt the same as inlet

9..head gasket--gen nissan metal compressed--clean as before must be dry and oil freeplace on dowels to line the gasket up bolt on head and tighten in correct sequence to correct factory specs

10..cam shaft seals--has to be gen nissan--PBR rubber cemant--clean same as all above--applt rubber cement inside and out side seals push over cam shaft tap into place with over sized socket rub engine oil over them to pre lub them

11..half moon seals--gen nissan rubber-- same as above with rubber cement and oil

12..cam cover gakets--gen nissan rubber--same as above

umm thats bout all i can think off

any questions???

That the kind of thing I was after. Thanks for that.

It was both a question and a statement. I hope to make a reference thread for gaskets because whenever I am bolting something together I've never been sure what type of goop to use and what type of gasket.

With my current knowledge I couldn't hope to build an engine like you have so for people like me, things like gasket goop threads can help.

hey mate i work at bunnings, but my passion is cars im hoping at the start of next year i can move and start mech engineering so the things i know from one of my best friends who is a mech and has been for the last 10 years and would never second guess him, im just glad i have a friend who is willing to teach me and show me everything so im glad to pass it on aswell

most gaskets in cars are going to be the same principle as most of the engine gaskets seps

like it just depends on what the factory use, the substance its sealing and the force it has on the area. for eg you wouldnt use a paper gasket as a head gasket thats just common sense

and sometimes you just have to make shit up like the dump pipe gasket i had to make, common sense says to use the same material as the exhaust manifold gasket so had to buy a sheet from repco and cut it up!!!

things like that are simple

  • 2 years later...

anyone know how to cut gasket material (perforated steel with card inside it)???

like how do you cut out the hole for say and exhaust? holesaw? tinsnips are useless for trying to cut the 'inside' out.

Oil drain pipe on the turbo has a gasket with no gasket goo. It is an oil resistant paper.

You can either make your own or buy one from nissan for a couple bucks (no point making your own).

Throttle bodies - different manufacturers recommend different products. My ford uses gasket goo (loctite black max). I used thickish gasket paper instead - worked the treat and much neater.

Cam covers - nissan gasket. No gasket goo required. Gasket goo is required on the bottom of the half moons.

GREAT THREAD! I am doing a RB25det conversion on my r32 gts4. Just got back from the nissan dealer half an hour ago and purchased a few gaskets that i could remember i needed off the top of my head. I have to go back there to get the rest that i need later.

I didnt buy the gasket goo they have thier as it was very expensive and the dealer actually told me i can get similar stuff else where for much cheaper.

Also i just searched for tech articles for applying gasket goop and found nothing. Someone experienced should make a tech article on how to prep and apply this stuff properly with photo's. I will take photo's and document the process i go through when doing mine but this will be my first time using the stuff so it probably wont be the best tech article.

ok The only sealants i use are RTV:

ULTRA BLACK, ULTRA GREY or THREEBOND

ULTRA GREY for any sumps, water housings etc (same as OEM use) as it is hard to notice, looks OEM and NEVER LEAKS

ULTRA BLACK use it for some rocker covers as it is hard to notice, looks OEM and NEVER LEAKS.

THREEBOND make the shit for nissan the orange stuff. Killer gear just looks shit on a engine build worth 10k :)

HYLOMAR SPRAY Perfect for HKS/GREDDY TOMEI metal intake gaskets etc and if your a fanatic it can be used on metal head Gaskets also

i prefer to use the permatex RTV gear. I take alot of pride in the engines i build so i like them to look good (stupid i know but they offer diff colours and it suites me, nothing worse than bolting together a killer setup only to have orange or red goop hanging out every join or gap....) and best of all they never leak or weep. this gear has NEVER let me down.

http://www.permatex.com/products/automotiv...sket_makers.htm

post-34927-1185430611_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1185430621_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1185430633_thumb.jpg

So the only difference between ultra grey and ultra black is the colour? Im not fussed at all by what colour the goops are... aslong as they do the job right. I noticed that orange goop stuff has been used on my old intake plenum as a sealant as well as one of the paper gaskets...

ULTRA BLACK use it for some rocker covers as it is hard to notice, looks OEM and NEVER LEAKS.

So to do this, you place rubber gaskets in place then squeeze ultra black goop around the top of the rubber gaskets then bolt the covers back on over the top?

So to do this, you place rubber gaskets in place then squeeze ultra black goop around the top of the rubber gaskets then bolt the covers back on over the top?

Nah only little beads in sharp corners, near the half moons for example.

Pretty sure they tell you wat is the intended use for each of those products.

Im no mechanic, Just a hobby for me :). on engines Ive built. I use;

Ultra Blue, - on water fittings, housings and gaskets.

Ultra Black, for Oil fittings, sump. rocker covers or with existing rubber seals.

Silastic *Black - If I were going to not use seals or rubber gaskets for an application.

Permetex No.3 - Things that are for oil but use paper gaskets with small fine gap.

Locktight 268 - for threads.

I normally will just use OEM or aftermarket gaskets on fuel or air items, no liquid gasket adhesive.

ok The only sealants i use are RTV:

ULTRA BLACK, ULTRA GREY or THREEBOND

ULTRA GREY for any sumps, water housings etc (same as OEM use) as it is hard to notice, looks OEM and NEVER LEAKS

ULTRA BLACK use it for some rocker covers as it is hard to notice, looks OEM and NEVER LEAKS.

THREEBOND make the shit for nissan the orange stuff. Killer gear just looks shit on a engine build worth 10k :stupid:

HYLOMAR SPRAY Perfect for HKS/GREDDY TOMEI metal intake gaskets etc and if your a fanatic it can be used on metal head Gaskets also

i prefer to use the permatex RTV gear. I take alot of pride in the engines i build so i like them to look good (stupid i know but they offer diff colours and it suites me, nothing worse than bolting together a killer setup only to have orange or red goop hanging out every join or gap....) and best of all they never leak or weep. this gear has NEVER let me down.

http://www.permatex.com/products/automotiv...sket_makers.htm

hey hey hey, you have a pic of ultra blue but don't mention it...?? am i missing something. i was gonna use ultra blue on my water pump it 'sounds' as if that's acceptable??

Whilst on this subject.

Im finding that , gaskets I need for this RB25DET only OEM available thru Nissan, been to repco and a few others, and acl parts lists, does not have listings for the gaskets I need.

Exhaust mainfold gasket

Intake Manifold GAsket

Intake Sandwich Gasket (the one inbetween the 2 halfs of the intake manifold)

Nissan prices are insane. its looking like im going to have to use them or use Gasket goop.

Anyone know where to get other ones?

MD SPARES in VIC are the best import engine gasket co in AUS, i use all their gear on rebuilds as many of the gaskets are actually genuine. They also have many parts like lifters, pumps, oil rotor sets etc...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The cam I am actually putting in (a few posts up) is actually smaller than my current one. At least duration/overlap wise. All the chop stuff I hear just sounds like an engine running badly, because it is. I then envision driving it around in 1st gear and being massively sad about it bucking to the beat of said chop. There is an idle video of someone with a similar cam floating around the internet, but mine is a custom cam (so is his) so it'll never be the same, plus the fact exhausts are entirely different. What I want to do is put some bullet mufflers/race mufflers in to replace a couple sections straight pipes that currently replace the two extra cats that I don't need. But this is even further down the line!
    • I can tell you now, when the bracket that the little hydraulic ram attaches to snaps, with a subframe, and V8 from an AMG C63 on it, it sounds like someone letting shotgun off right beside you. It leaves your ears ringing, and a huge thankfulness that you never ever put a body part under something heavy that's only supported by a hydraulic lift...
    • Still not a guarantee fix. I used a high quality butyl-mastiq (the black goo that's not really silicone nor polyurethane, same stuff they use from the factory that just spreads out like melty cheese), and I still get lots of water on both sides of the trunk when raining or washing the car. I also suspect the factory spoiler rubber gasket might not be sealing well, so I'm thinking of adding a thin layer of grey silicone around the bolt holes on both sides and see if that's where it also leaks from. The biggest issue is that these cars don't come with a drain hole on each side like other coupes and hatchbacks.
    • I hate it, but maybe he could paint it Monster jam style and call it...godzilla?
    • Would seem to me to be appropriate to go GTR style bar. There are options with and without N1 vent holes, with the GTR lower lip integral (because FG copy). https://justjap.com/search?q=r32 bumper  
×
×
  • Create New...