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RB25 Conversion Complete

makaveli

By makaveli,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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makaveli Mentor

makaveli

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

It has been some time since I have been on the forums.

Some of you may remember that I was doing a rb25det conversion in my r32 gts-t.

It is now all complete.

Due to alot of delays such as waiting 2 weeks for a gtr speedo drive and waiting 3 weeks for an auto elec to do my wiring loom, I can now say I am not sorry as it was all worth it.

I used a s2 rb25 from a late 96 r33, along with the gearbox and wiring loom.

I added a 3" front pipe onto my apexi exhaust system, power fc and blitz spec r boost controller.

On dyno dynamics dyno it made 197.6kw's at the rears on 11.5psi.

The overall drivability of the car is sooo much better. It makes you feel that the rb25 should have come in the 32 from factory.

Take it Easy

Mark :cheers:

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Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
...The overall drivability of the car is sooo much better. It makes you feel that the rb25 should have come in the 32 from factory.  

 

LOL..careful:)

Nah excellent to hear you are back on the road, and happy with the results. Do you mind me asking what it ended up setting you back, basically what you were expecting or more?...as im curious to know the real cost of such a swap, as i recall thinking based on my numbers it would cost more then you were thinking... Just curious to know if my numvbers were wrong/ im talking to the wrong ppl?

Now throw a 2530 on it and drive the wheels off it:)

makaveli Mentor

makaveli

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Roy,

No probs mate.

I purchased the motor, gearbox, loom and factory ecu for $2,500.

It should have been $3,500 although they took $1,000 off for the rb20.

For labour it ended up being just over $2,000 then plus $400 for tuning and $500 for the wiring loom.

I'd luv to get a 2530, 2535 or even a hi-flow although my wallet isnt very happy with me at the moment so it will have to come in the distant future :cheers:

take care

Mark

LOL..careful:)

Nah excellent to hear you are back on the road, and happy with the results. Do you mind me asking what it ended up setting you back, basically what you were expecting or more?...as im curious to know the real cost of such a swap, as i recall thinking based on my numbers it would cost more then you were thinking... Just curious to know if my numvbers were wrong/ im talking to the wrong ppl?

Now throw a 2530 on it and drive the wheels off it:)

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

great stuff mark :D I think you got a very good price for it all in the end, considering you have got an RB25 gearbox behind it, and somebody else did the labour also.

Better you have a smile on your face everytime you get in now.. that power level is impressive too.

I'm just sorting out some of the basics with mine and having some fun with the ol' rb20, but probably will be closer to end of this year/start of next before I get my motor in there. I'm interested to see how skylinegeoff's old "2530 equivelent" goes on my 2L first, then the 25

makaveli Mentor

makaveli

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Sydney Kid,

Yes I think the suspension may need a bit of attention.

At the moment I have Tein HA Coil Overs, although I think it would be nice to get those whiteline sway bars and front adjustable castor rods.

I did have a strut brace although I have to find a way to get it to fit now :)

The Teins are quite good though, as there is minimum body roll when cornering.

Take Care

Mark

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Hi Sydney Kid,

Yes I think the suspension may need a bit of attention.

At the moment I have Tein HA Coil Overs, although I think it would be nice to get those whiteline sway bars and front adjustable castor rods.

I did have a strut brace although I have to find a way to get it to fit now :P

The Teins are quite good though, as there is minimum body roll when cornering.

Take Care

Mark

Tein HA's, are yes, that explains it. Rediculously high spring rates, particularly in the rear. Hence a lack of compliance and the tyres skip from ridge to ridge in the road surface and the result is poor traction. My low cost suggestion is (as always), put the rear springs in the front and spend $150 and buy a set of rear springs with more suitable spring rates.

Stabilser bars are for controlling roll, not springs. Springs are for holding the car up and providing compliance for bumps. Horses for courses as they say.

:)

CerealKiller Veteran

CerealKiller

Posted
Posted
Ohh sorry Roy if I offended you before about the rb20's :P

I don't hate rb20's.... I know they have feelings too.

That sounds cool Gordo :D Keep me posted on how your going...

Take it Easy

Mark

no they don't! :)

Mark - where'd you get the engine from? Cos that's a really decent price.

CerealKiller Veteran

CerealKiller

Posted
Posted
Hi Nathan,

I got my motor from Tyrone at De Silvia Parts in Clayton.

His No is 0417 338256.

If you talk to him tell him you know Mark with the white r32 and he'll look after you.

He's got quite a few rb25's :)

take care

Mark

:( unfortunately I'm in Sydney...but thanks for the contact Mark.

siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
Posted

Quote: unfortunately I'm in Sydney...but thanks for the contact Mark /Quote

You can try powerplay imports, as a friend of mine did it thru them..

www.powerplayimports.com

Glad 2 hear another person has done this conversion with a huge smile on his face..

Starionturbo Mentor

Starionturbo

Posted
Posted

Good stuff Mark!!!

I knew I had you converted - I miss my old RB25 powered R32 - it felt so good in a light R32!!

I hope too many people dont do it, itll make it common - Back in Perth my car was the only 1 of 2 - RB25 powered 32s, and considering 32s were rare over there, it was even better. I only had to take someone once for a ride in that car to convince them, especially when they were hanging on for dear life when the car was wheelspinng 3rd sideways up the street :) Ahh the memories!

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