Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what car what mods what engine???

the mass airflow meter converts the amount of air drawn into the engine into voltage signal . The ECU needs to know int6ake air volume to calculate engine load, this is necessary to determine how much fuel to inject into the cylinder.

this means that when the AFM runs out of scope there is no more fuel injected into the cylinder than there would be at full throttle so when the air flow meter reads full load its supplying the max amount of fuel so if the AFM cant read anymore air coming in it can not suplly the fuel for it to ignight so you basically run out of puff

so what you will feel is nothing just wont make any more power

but if the car is unmoddified you will never reach this point

people if this is incorrect please let me know this is my understanding of the opperation

of the AFM

with the Q45 there is no way with those mods that you are maxing out your AFM get oyur car to a tuner and on the dyno and get your fuel and ignition checked and get them to test the AFM voltage and see if its reading correctly

yeah 5.0 volts is the max, or dead on. if its only a temporary max out its probably ok

but if its maxing out at like 3500 and stays at 5 volts the hole time then its a problem.

if its juts for quick second or two its no big drama. the ecu just wont see any more increase in airflow so more air is coming in than the airflow meter can measure

it doesnt feel like anything really. im maxing mine out, ive just got afm max warning turned off (flashes the engine light). im still on stock rb25 afm

well if you have datalogit why not do a 0 to redline run (on a private road of course) in 3rd or 4th and then look at the datalog report, from there you should be able to see what goes spastic past 5000

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea the photos aren't the best. When I was pulling the bumper and headlights out there was a bodyshop guy looking on for it, there is a slight bend behind where the passenger headlight is, but we're talking a few MM and there is a little bit of a bend for the reo. That said it's supposedly well within the "Drill a hole in it and pull it out with a slide hammer to be close enough" and be on our way. The other option is to buy a GTR reo for the GTR bumper bits but this is a $2000+ fix for something Mr Hammer can probably do 99% of the job for and everything will/can line up pretty closely-to-good-enough.
    • That's a write off for sure... Part out? 😛 I kid. It looks like the rad support has a minor minor bend in it too where the rep support sits near. Could just be the photos (and me not wearing my glasses right now). Worst case is you can buy a new radiator support, have it swapped over, and leave the car in paint jail for 12 to 18 months while you build the motor to handle twin turbos or a Harrop SC...
    • It seems the definition of "Gregging" something might need to be expanded?
    • This is why I suggested that there is really nothing that can safely be done in the engine bay at this budget level. Just the work to reassure yourself that the engine won't instantly crap itself the moment the boost gets turned up will wear out the piggy bank long before the first turbo gets installed. Spend $10k and still not have any extra performance? My tip is a version of our standard advice from 15 years ago about buying a GTR, which is not to buy one unless you can afford to buy two. The new version is not to modify a GTR unless you have all the funds required to do it all at once, properly, and enough to rebuild it after it blows up.
    • Oh, I forgot to mention this before.  It is accepted that your taking on risk buy turning up the power on a 30 year old stock motor. You can lower the risk with the ECU engine protection, but this is more money on sensors. CAN wideband, oil temp, oil pressure, coolant pressure, fuel pressure, air temp, etc. It adds up quick.  I am a huge fan of running all of the engine protection the ECU offers. You'll have to decide for yourself how you want the engine protection setup and what you think is worth monitoring. 
×
×
  • Create New...