Neo into R33

[caminperth]

Dave

Thanks for the info. I'll pull the Neo CAS tonight and check the key on it. They are the same plug so I was just going to plug it in and see if it worked first. If the wiring is different then wouldn't the spark just occur at the wrong time so it wouldn't run?

I wasn't aware of the difference in VVT. Bugger. Will have to see what happens with the R33 control on it. I don't have an R34 loom so that's why I'm going with it the way I am.

Andrew - I'm going the engine change because the old one was using alot of oil which points to broken ring lands and I couldn't afford a rebuild. Not hoping for big things out of this engine. Got to get it running and then decide either to sell or to mod.

[caminperth]

Update..

Have got the Neo fitted and am doing the final plumbing up. I have however hit a few problems and would love it if anyone knows the answers to any of these questions/problems..

1. After checking the CAS sensors they are NOT interchangeable. They have a different key and are wired differently. I have re-wired it tonight, but noticed that two of the wires were shielded and two were not. Now that I have cut and re-soldered the wiring the two wires that were originally shielded are now not.

Will this make a difference to what the ECU see's? Will I have to change it back and re-wire it at the ECU end rather than the CAS end?

2. The R33 VVT plug does not fit the R34 VVT solenoid. I pulled both out of the engines and found that they looked slightly different - maybe thats where the better VVT control comes from? I'm guessing I can't change them over so need to get a need plug?

3. The canister purge solenoid plug is different. Do I actually need this plugged in at all? Do people with forward facing plenums get rid of this item?

4. The AAC solenoid plugs are different. What does this solenoid do exactly? Again, do I need this?

5. The R33 loom has a sensor plug near the oil filter that hooks up to some sort of diaphram valve and some coolant piping to the intake plenum. The R34 engine does not have this piping or valve. Again, do I need this to be plugged in?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I plan to do a massive "how to" post to stop these questions being left unanswered once this thing is running.

[BHDave]

I'd be inclined to swap the CAS wiring at the ecu to maintain the sheilding as the CAS signal is one of the more important inputs to the ecu.

Will the r33 vvt solenoid physically fit the r34 engine? just an idea.

I have no idea what the canister purge solenoid is. If it's one of the 2 that sit on the back of the r33 plenum witha purple and brown plug (i think) then they are the solenoids that control idle air and idle step up with ac and power steering input. keep them both if possible.

If it's the one that sits underneath the plenum, it isn't needed if you don't mind the car stalling occasionally when it's cold, that would be the last one you are refering to in point 5. It is only a switched power and an earth anyway as the valve opens/closes based on the water temp.

[caminperth]

Dave - thanks for the reply..

After thinking a bit more about the CAS wiring, I've realised that by changing it at the plug I have actually kept the shielding on the correct wires as it's the sensor that changes. So I've changed the wiring to suit the ECU if that makes sense? Anyway, my bad.

The R33 VVT Solenoid will fit into the R34 engine, same thread and seal, but the holes and mechanism at the end is different. Looks like the R34 VVT requires more oil to operate. I'll take some photos tonight and post to show what I'm talking about.

The canister purge solenoid connects up to the charcol canister near the airbox. I'm just not sure if I need this canister or the purge solenoid.

I thought the AAC solenoid helped control idle with the ac and power steering. I should be able to change this plug over to a generic one to keep it working.

Point 5 is referring to the valve under the plenum, just above the oil filter. The thing is the R34 engine doesn't have this valve or piping for it. I was going to try to transfer the piping from the R33, but there is nowhere on the R34 engine to plug it in.

So I'm still trying to find out about the charcol canister. I wonder what happens with the forward facing plenums and the AAC and canister purge solenoids? Do they get ditched or retained on the new manifold?

[BHDave]

There's a charcoal canister purge? News to me.

Seeing as my rb25 is in an r32 it is plumbed to suit the 32 with one connection from the plenum to the charcoal canister and another from the throttle body to the little reg looking thing on the top of the canister. The other line i assume is the tank vent.

I know the valve you are talking about under the plenum. I removed it on my rb20 and the only problem i had was the odd stall when cold. Other than that the car still drove fine. Once it was up to temp there were no problems.

It may be that the r34 ecu controls it through the aac or iac valve rather than the other one.

With the CAS, you are running the r34 cas and r33 loom and ecu right? If so then yes you have wired it correctly and the signal wire will be shielded.

Is it possible to swap the r33 iac and aac valves to the r34 plenum? could save alot of hassles.

[caminperth]

I know - it was news to me too. I found the details on it in the R34 manual. I'm thinking I could do away with the whole thing.

I think I'll probably have the odd stalling problem you're talking about as the R33 ECU won't control it as the R34 one would (if that makes sense?). From what you've said I'm sure I can live with it.

Yup, R33 ECU and R34 CAS sensor so should be ok. Think it was just a long day yesterday and I couldn't get my head around it.

I've checked on swapping the valves over and they're different arrangements unfortunately so that's not an option. Will wire up the AAC valve with a generic plug and see how it runs.

[BHDave]

sounds fun.

good luck with it.

Atleast you dont have to rewire the under dash plugs and main plug next to the air box

[caminperth]

Thanks. Hopefully it'll be running tonight/tomorrow. Will report back with progress.

[caminperth]

ITS ALIVE!

Sorry, had to say it...

[GTS-t VSPEC]

Well done mate:D Can't wait to see it back on the road:cheers:

[BHDave]

Everything work as it should?

[caminperth]

Paul - thanks. I'm pretty surprised it started to be honest.

Dave - seemed to. The things that aren't plugged in are the canister purge solenoid, the intake warming valve (under the plenum) and the VVT. It idled fine and reved ok with minimal miss that cleaned itself up after a few minutes running. I tried loading it up with the aircon to see if the idle control was working and it seemed to go fine - no hint of stalling.

Things left to do before getting a tune are:

1. Install new fuel pump as I'm guessing the R34 fuelling requirements are more than my stock 10 year old pump can deliver.

2. Install new engine bay fuel lines as the R33 one's seem a bit shorter so are a bit stretched at the moment.

3. Get hold of a plug to suit the VVT of find some other way of connecting it up. Hopefully the guy I bought the engine off isn't using the plug.

4. Modify the way the throttle cable is mounted or try to shorten it at the accelerator pedal as it is too long at the moment.

5. Work out if the R33 computer and the HKS 5 dial fuel and ignition controllers will be able to do the job to run this thing and if not, decide on what sort of engine management to use. I've been reading up and the choice in Perth seems to be the PFC as the Wolf seems to have fallen out of favour. Shame really as from the manuals I've read the Wolf looked like it might suit and had a few more functions.

[Driver]

is it all up an running now?

[caminperth]

Sure is. I've been running around on 0.7bar and the map in the Mines R33 ecu for a while now. Got the VVT connected and it made a huge difference on low down power. Runs very very smoothly.

Just need to get time to install the new fuel pump, do an oil and plug change and take it for a run on the dyno.

[Driver]

good stuff