Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gday all,

i am selling both items below which were both bought brand new from P.E.T Modifications a little over 1 year ago. Reason is i am in the market for buying a house and possibly a 2nd car so i need to free up some money and have a short break from the car.

* Garrett GT3040R (700177-0014 : 600hp core with A/R .63 exhaust housing)

fyi, this turbo runs the genuine garrett gt40 compressor wheel as found in the 700hp GT35R, although with the smaller GT30 turbine wheel as in the HKS GT3037S)

* 45mm Turbosmart external wastegate (self explanatory)

these two items have only been run about 5-6000kms given that i constantly travel overseas for work and i got married last year where i was away for 2 months on my honeymoon. Also, my work is only 8kms away from home, so yeah it's a short drive.

the turbo has almost always been run on ~14psi since fitting as i don't have big enough injectors & fuel pump to support high boost.

only once when i leant some larger injectors from dennis at P.E.T Mods (was trying to tune car for dyno shootout at MAS last year - although the car never went on), we pushed it up to 24psi where my car (Ford Sierra Cosworth RS500) made ~280rwkw on PULP. After MAS i had to give the injectors back as he needed them for his own car, which meant the stock ones went back in and boost went back down to 14psi where it's been ever since.

Price (Garrett GT3040R) = $1600

Price (45mm turbosmart wastegate) = $600

or $2100 as a package.

this package would be ideal for anyone that wants to build a big hp street 4 cyl 2L or RB20/25/30, etc.

fyi, these items are still in my car so for anyone that's interested and in melbourne, you can hear them running for yourself.

i'll try and organise some pics soon so if interested, please reply here or PM me.

thanks for looking.

MasTers,

sorry, i've been a little busy and haven't got round to the pics as yet. hopefully monday.

Shane,

yes it's a genuine Garrett Dual ball-bearing GT3040R.

on my engine (2L sierra cosworth), i had 14psi by about 4200rpm.

power wise, i'm not too sure to be honest as we never did a proper power tune/run on 14psi. It would've been making around 180-190rwkw, although it really woke up when we tuned it at 24psi for MAS last year.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh man what a deal.... Funny enough (well not really) I sold a car to some old dude (buying for his Daughter) on a Saturday, He asked if she could take the car now and pay me the money on Monday as the bank wasn't open. Needless to say I told them to come back with the cash or get f**ked! Luckily the money seemed to magically appear in his pocket a few minutes later, so it all ended well (for me).
    • Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
    • All I can say is, that's still bloody awesome! No plans on caging it I'm guessing?
×
×
  • Create New...