Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gday all,

i am selling both items below which were both bought brand new from P.E.T Modifications a little over 1 year ago. Reason is i am in the market for buying a house and possibly a 2nd car so i need to free up some money and have a short break from the car.

* Garrett GT3040R (700177-0014 : 600hp core with A/R .63 exhaust housing)

fyi, this turbo runs the genuine garrett gt40 compressor wheel as found in the 700hp GT35R, although with the smaller GT30 turbine wheel as in the HKS GT3037S)

* 45mm Turbosmart external wastegate (self explanatory)

these two items have only been run about 5-6000kms given that i constantly travel overseas for work and i got married last year where i was away for 2 months on my honeymoon. Also, my work is only 8kms away from home, so yeah it's a short drive.

the turbo has almost always been run on ~14psi since fitting as i don't have big enough injectors & fuel pump to support high boost.

only once when i leant some larger injectors from dennis at P.E.T Mods (was trying to tune car for dyno shootout at MAS last year - although the car never went on), we pushed it up to 24psi where my car (Ford Sierra Cosworth RS500) made ~280rwkw on PULP. After MAS i had to give the injectors back as he needed them for his own car, which meant the stock ones went back in and boost went back down to 14psi where it's been ever since.

Price (Garrett GT3040R) = $1600

Price (45mm turbosmart wastegate) = $600

or $2100 as a package.

this package would be ideal for anyone that wants to build a big hp street 4 cyl 2L or RB20/25/30, etc.

fyi, these items are still in my car so for anyone that's interested and in melbourne, you can hear them running for yourself.

i'll try and organise some pics soon so if interested, please reply here or PM me.

thanks for looking.

MasTers,

sorry, i've been a little busy and haven't got round to the pics as yet. hopefully monday.

Shane,

yes it's a genuine Garrett Dual ball-bearing GT3040R.

on my engine (2L sierra cosworth), i had 14psi by about 4200rpm.

power wise, i'm not too sure to be honest as we never did a proper power tune/run on 14psi. It would've been making around 180-190rwkw, although it really woke up when we tuned it at 24psi for MAS last year.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
  • Create New...