Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

First off, some of you have probably read about my problems in another thread about leaking manifolds. To cut to the chase, I basically have a leak somewhere around the exhaust manifold or turbos on my R32 GT-R.

I have decided that I may as well be thorough and replace most of the gaskets, studs and nuts as I go. Anyway, I have (or will have tomorrow) everything I need except the studs, nuts and washers where the turbo meets the exhaust manifold. Crows Nest Nissan can get them, but its going to be over $200 for the eight studs/nuts/washers which is just outrageous IMHO.

Speaking to SydneyKid, he said that the studs are just a standard metric size and should be available through a generic nut supplier. He also said the stud pitch and length/height is listed in the workshop manual.

I feel like a bit of a gimp, but I can't for the life of me find the details in the workshop manual. I have gone through every single page of the english R32 Workshop Manual and the only details listed (that I can see) are tightening torques.

Perhaps they are listed in the R33 or R34 manuals, or the Japanese R32 manual: unfortunately I don't have those. Does anyone know what the specs for the studs are, or know where they are listed?

Again, I feel like a bit of a fool for asking, but I have drawn a blank :Oops:

Edit: So people know what I am talking about:

turbo-manifold-stud.png

Cheers,

Lucien.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71848-turbomanifold-stud-sizepitchlength/
Share on other sites

from memory they are M10 x 1.25 manfold studs

Interesting. They look similar to the turbo/dump studs I got from GCG today (they don't have the turbo/manifold ones :D), but seem a bit longer (which makes sense, since the Nissan part numbers are different).

Are you able to stick a ruler on it for length?

Cheers,

Lucien.

well i could not find a ruler or a tape measure but i hope this helps tou out its bout 50--55mm something like that

but i just bought some today must be replaced everytime you take the manifold off

studs0050ou.jpg

Thanks mate: you've been a huge help: off the top of my head the standard is about 57mm or there abouts.

Off I got to find 8 x 57mm studs @ M10 x 1.25

BTW, I found this little printable chart quite handy for working out size and thread pitch :rofl:http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-informat...hread-Gauge.pdf

Cheers,

Lucien.

Richard: I have spoken to Lee Bros. already. They don't have a stud with 1.25mm pitch on both ends, but if I get desperate the can help with a 60mm stud.

My problem is I need the studs before I take the car apart. I won't bore you with why, but if I take things apart and don't have the right studs I basically have to dump the car for two weeks.

Anyway, spoke to a muffler shop in Leichhardt and he reakons he has the right studs so I will try there first :rofl:

Lucien.

well i could not find a ruler or a tape measure but i hope this helps tou out its bout 50--55mm something like that

but i just bought some today must be replaced everytime you take the manifold off

They must be replaced everytime you take the exi mani off? I re-used mine and they're fine (sr20). Is this only on the rb26 or all engines?

Should I be taking my turbo off and replacing them!?

The manifold to head studs are M10x1.25, but the turbo to manifold studs won't be that big (I'd be very surprised).   More likely M8x1.25.

Oh dear. The turbo to dumps are M10 according to GCG: wouldn't it make sense that the manifold to turbo one is also M10 (he says, looking at the M10 studs he just bought)?

blackrb20silvia: reakon you could line up that stud against a print out of the thread pitch chart I posted (about 4 posts up)? When printing in Acrobat, make sure scaling is set to None....

Edit: and the studs I just got are about 52mm long. Hopefully long enough :rofl:

LW.

Oh dear.  The turbo to dumps are M10 according to GCG: wouldn't it make sense that the manifold to turbo one is also M10 (he says, looking at the M10 studs he just bought)?.

Well they could be M10, seems rather big to me. Someone with a GTR turbo lying around should measure it - I can check tonight.

They must be replaced everytime you take the exi mani off? I re-used mine and they're fine (sr20). Is this only on the rb26 or all engines?

Should I be taking my turbo off and replacing them!?

nah, as long as the thread on them is ok. it's your call. make a judgement when you remove/replace your manifold. if they are old and starting to deteriorate then replace 'em. I certainly wouldn't take your turbo or manifold off to replace studs that are working fine.

Lucien, if you get stuck there is no problem in cutting or linishing the studs. plus if they are just going onto the manifold/turbo flange then it probably wouldn't matter if they are 5mm too long.

They must be replaced everytime you take the exi mani off? I re-used mine and they're fine (sr20). Is this only on the rb26 or all engines?

Should I be taking my turbo off and replacing them!?

ok first off when i posted there was no pic refering to the turbo flange bolts i posted bout the manifold studs which are M10 x 1.25 sorry to confuse

also it is highly recomended that when removing the manifold studs or turbo studs that they are replaced

1 because of the huge amount of expansion and contraction in that area

2 the last thing you want is when torqueing the bolts up is one to snap in the head if you are re-using

im sorry im just highly against reusing these bolts im not saying this to make money on it am i?

i have had alot of bad experiance with manifold studs and it is well worth the time and the money to replace when ever you take it off or it can cost tripple the amount if you snap them in the head please consider this when you change them please

what does a new head cost these days or the price of a helicoil kit or the labour of doing it what bout ezyouts well there not always ezy and if they snap too your in trouble

sorry to go on i just dont want iwells to have to pay twice when things go wrong!!!!

LW - Did you see my PM? All the info you need should be in there..

Yes, sorry, I was racing around and didn't have time to reply.

Again, I can't see any description for the pitch or size in the R33 manual, just like the R32 (unless I am blind). I guess it just assumes you will be purchasing them from Nissan.

LW.

Yeah, as per the other thread, I ran the part numbers by Crows Nest Nissan (hence I found out for the the 8 turbo->manifold studs/nuts it would be ~$200). I agree it means the width is the same.

And I think your right about them being M8s too. Hmph.

LW.

Oops. Replacing them, torquing? oh dear...I just put them on and hand tightened half of them, my mate did the other half. (engine to manifold, manifold to turbo, dumppipe)

Was I just really lucky that it all works ok? Either way I'm going to stop hi-jacking. Good luck Iwells.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...