Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

First off, some of you have probably read about my problems in another thread about leaking manifolds. To cut to the chase, I basically have a leak somewhere around the exhaust manifold or turbos on my R32 GT-R.

I have decided that I may as well be thorough and replace most of the gaskets, studs and nuts as I go. Anyway, I have (or will have tomorrow) everything I need except the studs, nuts and washers where the turbo meets the exhaust manifold. Crows Nest Nissan can get them, but its going to be over $200 for the eight studs/nuts/washers which is just outrageous IMHO.

Speaking to SydneyKid, he said that the studs are just a standard metric size and should be available through a generic nut supplier. He also said the stud pitch and length/height is listed in the workshop manual.

I feel like a bit of a gimp, but I can't for the life of me find the details in the workshop manual. I have gone through every single page of the english R32 Workshop Manual and the only details listed (that I can see) are tightening torques.

Perhaps they are listed in the R33 or R34 manuals, or the Japanese R32 manual: unfortunately I don't have those. Does anyone know what the specs for the studs are, or know where they are listed?

Again, I feel like a bit of a fool for asking, but I have drawn a blank :Oops:

Edit: So people know what I am talking about:

turbo-manifold-stud.png

Cheers,

Lucien.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71848-turbomanifold-stud-sizepitchlength/
Share on other sites

  blackrb20silvia said:
from memory they are M10 x 1.25 manfold studs

Interesting. They look similar to the turbo/dump studs I got from GCG today (they don't have the turbo/manifold ones :D), but seem a bit longer (which makes sense, since the Nissan part numbers are different).

Are you able to stick a ruler on it for length?

Cheers,

Lucien.

well i could not find a ruler or a tape measure but i hope this helps tou out its bout 50--55mm something like that

but i just bought some today must be replaced everytime you take the manifold off

studs0050ou.jpg

Thanks mate: you've been a huge help: off the top of my head the standard is about 57mm or there abouts.

Off I got to find 8 x 57mm studs @ M10 x 1.25

BTW, I found this little printable chart quite handy for working out size and thread pitch :rofl:http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-informat...hread-Gauge.pdf

Cheers,

Lucien.

Richard: I have spoken to Lee Bros. already. They don't have a stud with 1.25mm pitch on both ends, but if I get desperate the can help with a 60mm stud.

My problem is I need the studs before I take the car apart. I won't bore you with why, but if I take things apart and don't have the right studs I basically have to dump the car for two weeks.

Anyway, spoke to a muffler shop in Leichhardt and he reakons he has the right studs so I will try there first :rofl:

Lucien.

  blackrb20silvia said:
well i could not find a ruler or a tape measure but i hope this helps tou out its bout 50--55mm something like that

but i just bought some today must be replaced everytime you take the manifold off

They must be replaced everytime you take the exi mani off? I re-used mine and they're fine (sr20). Is this only on the rb26 or all engines?

Should I be taking my turbo off and replacing them!?

  SteveL said:
The manifold to head studs are M10x1.25, but the turbo to manifold studs won't be that big (I'd be very surprised).   More likely M8x1.25.

Oh dear. The turbo to dumps are M10 according to GCG: wouldn't it make sense that the manifold to turbo one is also M10 (he says, looking at the M10 studs he just bought)?

blackrb20silvia: reakon you could line up that stud against a print out of the thread pitch chart I posted (about 4 posts up)? When printing in Acrobat, make sure scaling is set to None....

Edit: and the studs I just got are about 52mm long. Hopefully long enough :rofl:

LW.

  lwells said:
Oh dear.  The turbo to dumps are M10 according to GCG: wouldn't it make sense that the manifold to turbo one is also M10 (he says, looking at the M10 studs he just bought)?.

Well they could be M10, seems rather big to me. Someone with a GTR turbo lying around should measure it - I can check tonight.

  someonestolecc said:
They must be replaced everytime you take the exi mani off? I re-used mine and they're fine (sr20). Is this only on the rb26 or all engines?

Should I be taking my turbo off and replacing them!?

nah, as long as the thread on them is ok. it's your call. make a judgement when you remove/replace your manifold. if they are old and starting to deteriorate then replace 'em. I certainly wouldn't take your turbo or manifold off to replace studs that are working fine.

Lucien, if you get stuck there is no problem in cutting or linishing the studs. plus if they are just going onto the manifold/turbo flange then it probably wouldn't matter if they are 5mm too long.

  someonestolecc said:
They must be replaced everytime you take the exi mani off? I re-used mine and they're fine (sr20). Is this only on the rb26 or all engines?

Should I be taking my turbo off and replacing them!?

ok first off when i posted there was no pic refering to the turbo flange bolts i posted bout the manifold studs which are M10 x 1.25 sorry to confuse

also it is highly recomended that when removing the manifold studs or turbo studs that they are replaced

1 because of the huge amount of expansion and contraction in that area

2 the last thing you want is when torqueing the bolts up is one to snap in the head if you are re-using

im sorry im just highly against reusing these bolts im not saying this to make money on it am i?

i have had alot of bad experiance with manifold studs and it is well worth the time and the money to replace when ever you take it off or it can cost tripple the amount if you snap them in the head please consider this when you change them please

what does a new head cost these days or the price of a helicoil kit or the labour of doing it what bout ezyouts well there not always ezy and if they snap too your in trouble

sorry to go on i just dont want iwells to have to pay twice when things go wrong!!!!

  caminperth said:
LW - Did you see my PM? All the info you need should be in there..

Yes, sorry, I was racing around and didn't have time to reply.

Again, I can't see any description for the pitch or size in the R33 manual, just like the R32 (unless I am blind). I guess it just assumes you will be purchasing them from Nissan.

LW.

Yeah, as per the other thread, I ran the part numbers by Crows Nest Nissan (hence I found out for the the 8 turbo->manifold studs/nuts it would be ~$200). I agree it means the width is the same.

And I think your right about them being M8s too. Hmph.

LW.

Oops. Replacing them, torquing? oh dear...I just put them on and hand tightened half of them, my mate did the other half. (engine to manifold, manifold to turbo, dumppipe)

Was I just really lucky that it all works ok? Either way I'm going to stop hi-jacking. Good luck Iwells.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well some mostly good news and some slight bad news.  Good news is cylinder 6 did in fact only require a honing and I'm good to run my 86.5mm pistons again. I should also get the block back by end of week. Bad news, had a few surprises pop up. First, main and rod bearings were trashed. No sign of any heat damage. I knew right away what caused this... I had not packed my oil pump originally and spent a lot more time than I would have liked cranking the motor to get oil pressure. It sounded fine once started so I chucked it up to luck and forgot about it. Luckily rod and crank are fine and just need new bearings. Engine builder agreed that this was the cause.    Another surprise that carbon covered up very well that I didn't catch, something got sucked up and went through cylinder 1, 2 and 3. Luckily this was no cause for concern, just needed a bit of cleaning up. Valves look fine but he will vacuum test the head this week to confirm. I'm presuming this was something left over from welding my intercooler piping, but we'll never know. I'm going to thoroughly reclean everything.    So all in all, happy the motor is fine, and I'll get it back much sooner than expected. I'll also be taking the time to convert my WMI system over to direct port. I'll snap some pictures of that when the parts come in. 
    • I understand, thanks. Yeah I wouldn't want the car to tip over, I'll try and use the sills, I don't want to risk smashing the chassis rails. I ordered some rubber pucks that have a hopefully big enough slotting. If the front right gives me trouble I can always just make a wood block. I'll measure and inspect the sills closer once I actually take the car up. I hope so, but the rubber blocks I had in hand so far were pretty damn firm, if they are that hard they won't give much way. I'll let you know what happens. Angle grinding rubber isn't one of my favorite tasks. I'll probably start a build thread soon, for my own documentation and "log" as well as sharing what's going on with the car.
    • Kinda something I have been thinking about.  To be honest, we bought it already driving like that.  So there's no telling how long it actually has been driving like this.  Hopefully damage is too bad when we drop the pan.   I am having a hard time finding a site that sells the solenoid for the 5 speed auto, do you have any suggestions?
    • That'll be most likely down the road...  LOL  
    • a stock / option or aftermarket?
×
×
  • Create New...