Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A little background info.

2001 R34 GTX-T, Bilstein Shocks, Whiteline Springs, Rear Whiteline Camber Kit, Yokohama A539's.

I was changing oil tonight and found the front tyres (the right in particular) are wearing more on the inside edge. The right one appears to be almost worn flat on the inside edge??

I was advised by friends with similar suspension mods and by Fulcrum that a front camber kit wasn't necessary?? If this is the case, why are my fronts wearing down so quickly?

Note, have not been to any track days.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71857-inner-edge-wearing/
Share on other sites

I had a 2x rear whiteline camber kits fitted by Fulcrum 2 days after I fitted the Bilstein/Whiteline Suspension with a mate.

They also carried out a full 4 wheel alignment and 4 wheel balance.

This was about 2 1/2 months ago.

Abo Bob> I can't find the settings, but Fulcrum have agreed to take a look and fix whatever the problem might be. They said that they may have wrongly adjusted something. Good service if you ask me.

GTR_Legend> I can't remember all of the differences. The ones I can remember are that it has a upgraded stereo system, and also it is a newer model revision, mine being a little rarer as it is a 2001 GTX-T. I believe it also has the Garrett BB turbo, but I am yet to confirm this. Here is a link with all the different skyline models. It is in Russian, but you can use Babel to get a rough translation.

http://www.j-car.ru/catalog/nissan-skyline-139.shtml

:D

did u get the tyre wear sorted out?

i lowered mine ,, and noticed that my front tyres are also worn on the inside,,

was told once by someone that i won't need rear camber kit,, but might need front camber kit,,

so thats different to your setup,,, now i'm confused,

so can anyone confirm what camber kits are needed for r34's when you lower it?

Front ro rear kits????

Front camber kits are generally not required unless you have bent something. You will notice that on the whiteline web page they only ever list the front camber kits for skylines as optional or for club/track use. The front suspension geometry doesn't get as badly effected by lowering as the rear. Suspension for the 33s and 34s is basically the same with only a minor shock mounting change to the rear.

I have always set my GTST and GTR like this:-

Front

camber -1.5deg to -2.0deg

toe in/out 0

caster as much as I can get....

currently 5.5deg on the GTR and about 8.0 on GTST

Rear

camber -1.0 deg

toe in/out slightly in, maybe 1mm to 1.5mm each side

These setting seem to work well, I have never had a problem with uneven tyre wear on the road or track.....

Hope that helps.

P.S. The rear does have some factory camber adjustment, you may find this is enough but it wasn't for me in either the GTR of GTST. The front does not have any camber adjustment but after lowering the GTST sedan its camber was right on -1.5deg each side which was perfect for me and the GTR I fitted a front camber kit as I go overkill on everything with it :wassup:

Fulcrum apparently said that everything was as they left it, so I'm not sure. As JL mentioned it could have been due to bending something, but that hasn't happened as far as I know.

My settings are pretty much what JL mentioned as he is the one who fitted all my suspension bits except for the rear camber kit, Fulcrum did that.

My thoughts are for the couple a hundred I can get the front camber kit and be done with it.

Piece of mind ...... maybe overkill but who cares.

did u get the tyre wear sorted out?

i lowered mine ,, and noticed that my front tyres are also worn on the inside,,

was told once by someone that i won't need rear camber kit,, but might need front camber kit,,    

so thats different to your setup,,,  now i'm confused,

so can anyone confirm what camber kits are needed for r34's when you lower it?

Front ro rear kits????

My 20 cents worth......................

In order for the 1.5 degrees negative camber not to excessively wear tyres on the inside, you have to make use of it. If you do a lot of freeway driving or live in traffic then it is not using the negative camber. Similarly if you don't drive it hard through corners at every opportunity.

Personally I would never have 1.5 degrees negative camber on my driving to work car, it has 0.5 degree and I add 2 degrees for track work while it is jacked up to change the tyres.

:)

Sorry Sydneykid. I may have misinformed with my last post. My rear camber was set by Fulcrum to -1.0deg. The front is stock setting...untouched.

As for driving of the car, I don't think of myself as a "Schumaker" for street driving, but I'm no "Driving Miss Daisy" either. :headspin:

My 20 cents worth......................

In order for the 1.5 degrees negative camber not to excessively wear tyres on the inside, you have to make use of it.  If you do a lot of freeway driving or live in traffic then it is not using the negative camber.   Similarly if you don't drive it hard through corners at every opportunity.

Personally I would never have 1.5 degrees negative camber on my driving to work car, it has 0.5 degree and I add 2 degrees for track work while it is jacked up to change the tyres.

:)

Sorry Sydneykid. I may have misinformed with my last post. My rear camber was set by Fulcrum to -1.0deg. The front is stock setting...untouched.

As for driving of the car, I don't think of myself as a "Schumaker" for street driving, but I'm no "Driving Miss Daisy" either. :headspin:

I don't drive Miss Daisy either, but traffic and freeways beat me every time. The reality is, tyres wear on the inside (only) from excessive negative camber or excessive toe out. That's it, there isn't any other reason. :)

OK. So would upgrading to Whiteline Springs, Bilstein shocks, and Whiteline Rear camber kit cause Excessive negative camber or excessive toe out?

I don't drive Miss Daisy either, but traffic and freeways beat me every time.  The reality is, tyres wear on the inside (only) from excessive negative camber or excessive toe out.  That's it, there isn't any other reason. :)
OK. So would upgrading to Whiteline Springs, Bilstein shocks, and Whiteline Rear camber kit cause Excessive negative camber or excessive toe out?

Maybe a little too much negative camber, shouldn't affect the toe at all. We are guessing, I would get the alignment checked, stick up the numbers and some of us "experts" will be ablet to help.

:)

The car will be out of action for a couple of weeks, but as soon as I get the figures I will post them.

Thanks for the feedback. :thankyou:

Maybe a little too much negative camber, shouldn't affect the toe at all.  We are guessing, I would get the alignment checked, stick up the numbers and some of us "experts" will be ablet to help.

:)

Run your hand across the worn part of the tyre, if feels a bit furry when you run it across at a certain angle it is due to "feathering" which on the inside of the tyre would be due to excessive toe out. Lowering the suspension of the car will give the car more negative camber. Think about it. As the suspension lowers and the tyre moves farther up the guard, the lower control arm pushes in at the base of the wheel and produces more negative camber. The solution: raise your suspension again or buy a camber kit (in order for it to be adjustable)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 馃槩 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
  • Create New...