Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Apparently we are going to hit close to $1.35 a litre by the winter.

If this happens the prices will flow on down to the price of every

thing we buy! Want petrol prices to come down? We need to take some

intelligent, united action. Philip Hollsworth, offered this good idea.

This makes MUCH MORE SENSE than the "don't buy petrol on a certain

"day" campaign that was going around last April or May! The oil companies

just laughed at that because they knew we wouldn't continue to "hurt

ourselves" by refusing to buy petrol. It was more of an inconvenience to us

than

it was a problem for them. BUT, whoever thought of this idea, has come

up with a plan that can really work.

Now that the oil companies and the OPEC nations have conditioned

us to think that the cost of a litre is CHEAP at .89 / .95 cents, we need

to take aggressive action to teach them that BUYERS control the

marketplace not sellers. With the price of petrol going up more each day, me

consumers need to take action. The only way we are going to see the price of

petrol come down is if we hit someone in the pocket by not purchasing their

Petrol!

And we can do that WITHOUT hurting ourselves.

Here's the idea:

For the rest of this year, DON'T purchase ANY petrol from the two

biggest oil companies (which now are: BP and Mobil). If they are not

selling any petrol, they will be inclined to reduce their prices. If they

reduce

their prices, the other companies will have to follow suit. But to have an

impact, we need to reach literally millions of BP petrol buyers.

It's really simple to do!!

Now, don't wimp out on me at this point...keep reading and I'll

explain how simple it is to reach millions of people!! I am sending

this note to a lot of people. If each of you send it to at least ten more

(30 x 10 = 300) ...and those 300 send it to at least ten more >>(300 x 10 =

3,000)...

and so on, by the time the message reaches the sixth generation of

people, we will have reached over THREE MILLION consumers!

Again, all you have to do is send this to 10 people. That's all. (and

not buy at BP and Mobil) How long would all that take? If each of

us sends this email out to ten more people within one day of receipt,

all 300 MILLION people could conceivably be contacted within the next

8 days!!! I'll bet you didn't think you and I had that much potential,

did you! Acting together we can make a difference. If this makes sense to

you, please pass this message on.

PLEASE HOLD OUT UNTIL THEY LOWER THEIR PRICES TO THE 80 cents a

LITRE RANGE.

It's easy to make this happen. Just forward this email, and buy your

petrol at Shell, Caltex, GAS. or Gull Outlets and drive past BP and

MOBIL Stations.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71881-petrol-prices/
Share on other sites

People will go whereever is easy, or they'll drive around getting the cheapest price, either way I don't think they'll be bypassing the two biggest companies.

Besides, some of us need the higher octane and stuff, or ju7st find their car runs a bit better on the ol' ultimate

I'd love to put pressure on the companies - but its a sad fact the prices are going to rise.

That said, I've been paying over 1.15 for well over 6 months now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71881-petrol-prices/#findComment-1325432
Share on other sites

this goes around all the time. it wont work.

plus bp and mobil are the only ones worth running.

I tend to disagree... I find I get the same out of any 98 octane fuel.....

But each to his own I guess.....

The other thing I've got to say about this spam is, that it simply won't work.

And especially not out my way. We've got all three in the one street within metres of each other. The BP is ALWAYS the cheapest, no matter what. The Caltex fluctuates alot, but the Mobil, well, they're always over the top with their prices because they know they can still stay in business cause the police station across the road has to buy from them.....lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71881-petrol-prices/#findComment-1326337
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...