Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What seals should you replace when you do a timing belt on anRB25DET. The mehanic I spoke to reckoned crank and camshaft I think.

I didn't think this was necessary as I wouldn't even be taking the camshaft pulleys off.

Even the crank seal I didn't think would be necessary.

Apparently the timing belt is hitting the cover so he thinks maybe the tensioner is dodgy.

Also he said that the crank pulley can sometimes be very hard to get offf!!!

its recommended you do the following

Cam Shaft Seals

Crank Shaft Seals

Tension Pully

Idler Pully

Timing Belt

You dont want to change the timing belt then find out 6 months later that your crank seal is leaking and u gotta take it all off again.

The most expensive part will be the tension pully.

Dont people usually crank engine for split second with bar on chassis rail to loosen he nut. How about doing it up?/ Does a harmonic balancer puller usually get it off once nut is undone?

I have done a lot repairs on cars but never a timing belt - so just trying to gather info before I start.

Cheers

Is it hard to get the correct tension on the belt?? Is it auto adjusting or do you have to set the tension pretty spot on.

Is the crank seal shown below here.

And to do the cam seals you have to take the pulley wheels off the camshafts?

Do you guys just mark with a white pen for reference to make sure all the pulleys are in the same relative position when you reassemble.

Thanks for thehelp so far

timing0hw.jpg

If I replace the camshaft seals does this mean I have to take off the rocker cover so I can secure the cams to stop them from spinning when I want to tighten the pully wheel bolt.

ALso do you guys just reuse the spring on the tensioner pulley. Or when you get a new pulley and bearing doe this come with it?

Thanks

P.s. how much tension should be on the belt. I have taken the top cover off mine and there is quite a bit of deflection if you push on the belt between the top 2 camshaft pulleys. I'm not going to drive it much until I replace it. I think the mechanic was rightI think it has been hitting the belt cover...

1) WHAT is the best way to stop the crank spinning? I read somewhere you can bust your gearbox if you way put it in 5th and apply brakes to undo the bolt. If you just put it in 5th without putting on the brakes the worst it can do is rotate the wheels right?

2) Getting the pulley off. Is a cheap harmonic balancer puller not good for this job?

3) Is it hard to remove the crank timing gear to get to the crank seal? I heard a few people on hear say it is a real bitch.

4) How hard is it to get the cam seals..i.e remove rocker cover?

I'm thinking maybe just do

the 2 bearings,

belt,

water pump (maybe)

There is no oil form crank or cam areas. ...

The shop said it could be quite expensive if they run into trouble

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After drying a few days, time to put her back together 
    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
×
×
  • Create New...