Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How much extra lift is it possible to get out of stock rb26 cams by regrinding them and also being able to achive the right durations as well? I was thinking that if I was to change the cams with other ones the valve shimming needs to be changed so why not just get my cams reground. Have any of you had it done and what does it normally cost?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71903-rb26-cam-regrinding/
Share on other sites

Personally I really would get in touch with lukevl first. He works at a cam place (Tighe Cams?) that seems to be pretty well up to speed on the Nissan engines.

Yella Terra is a name I more associate with old aussie/english/US stuff. If they even do cams, they probably aren't the best to ask about Nissan stuff.

ive had reground cams in a few different cars with no problems. Not long ago tho i was reading a zoom article which pretty much said your a cod if you stick regrinds in your engine. The particular article was focusing on an rb26 from memory. The idea was stick to stock if you dont have the money or incliation to buy billet. im not so sure, crank regrinds are pretty common, i assume its a similar process.

Im interested to see what someone in the know says.

The other option would be porting, cheaper than cams and can get good power gains.

tim

I just rang wade cams and they said that they can regrind them and they only charge $220 a pair, sounds ok to me. I am trying to find a page on the net that lists all the durations and lifts for all the gtr models. I have seen it before but can't find it now.

I think zoom is a waste of time. Some of there tech artilces are full of **** if you read them properly. They said they couldn't tune a rb20 with 440c injectors but in the next paragragh they talk about how well the car could be tuned with 550cc injectors. Not to mention what they said you have to do to put a rb26 in a gtst was all rubbish.

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html

thats the closes i could find on the cam specs for ya m8 .. hope that helps

interesting wade cams will do em .....is that standard regrind or increase in lift?

Matt

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...0_cam_RB26.html

The poncams type a could be suitable for me. They should be good since I will be putting on n1 turbo's and I would rather a little lost off the top to get some more midrange. I'll send wade an email tonight. They said they cam get a little more lift and duration so we'll see what he says.

They just grind a new profile into the cams and due to the extra clearance you need to re do the valve clearances. They should only be taking off less than a mm to increase the lift from 8.6 to 9.15 but the added gains should be in the extra duration. Around 20 degrees on both in and ex.

Does anybody sell cheap valve shims?

It's difficult to explain in words and I suspect a google search will reveal much, but FWIW:

- re-grinding stock cams to increase lift involves reduction of the base-circle diameter while maintaining as much of the original lobe height as possible. The base circle of a cam lobe is basically the diameter of the cam measured at a point 90 degrees to the lobe itself. Reducing the base circle means that, on RB26 engines, increased shim thickness must be used to restore factory clearances. With 24 valves this can get expensive - the shims vary in price between $15 and $25 each. Also, depending on how much is removed from the cam, it's possible that shims of sufficient thickness may be unavailable (max factory shim thickness is 3mm).

- using a 'billet' cam can help overcome the reduction in base circle. A billet cam is a 'raw' cam with large, as cast lobes. Using a billet the stock base circle can be acheived (more-or-less) while grinding the lobe for increased lift. Billet cams are expensive and more expensive to grind. I don't know about RB billets, but an L-series billet (L24/26/28) was around $300 about 5 years ago - and that only has 12 lobes (and only 1 per engine !!).

- welding a cam to give more grinding surface is sort of a psuedo-billet arrangement. Personally I'd steer clear - welding cast iron is frought with danger even when done by the skilled. Warping is a major problem in itself.

Thanks steve I just thought about it a bit more... remove material from the circular profile of the lobe, leave as much material in the max height as possible, put in a thicker shim.

That's pretty much it. There are some other consequences like increased valve opening rates that can cause problems with stock springs.

RB26 heads are pricks to work on, they are just rubbish because they take so much damn time and every head i have pulled apart the exhaust valve guides are always thrashed out and need replacing... THe shims are also a real pain in the but and bloody expensive... To give you an idea on what you should be able to achieve with a stock cam reground the stock base circle is 33mm, I have a set of jun 272, 10.8mm lift cams and the base circle is 30mm. The overall height from base to pitch is only .8mm difference in favour of the Jun item... So with stock cams I rekon you should be able to get them to around 272 and 9.4-9.6 mm of lift which is nice as you wont need to grind the head down to fit that size cam!! Hope this helps!!!

Unless you're able to set the tappets yourself, the money you save on regrinding as opposed to new cams is not really worth it. For a start, timewise, you will need to remove the cams and send them away to be ground, say 1 week return and $220+freight, then whatever comes off the base circle radius of the cam will need to be added to the thickness of the shim. This means you will need to refit the cams, measure shims and calculate the thickness of the new shims required, then order new shims. Shims will cost $15 or so each+freight, so 24x$15=$360 and that's if you get it right the first time. This is assuming you already have the tools to do it, including a micrometer and feeler gauges. Thats up to $600 or so without any labour.

This gives you a set of reground cams with questionable hardness, especially on the transition from the base circle to the opening and closing ramps plus a set of shims around 1mm thicker that are slightly heavier plus the buckets will be sitting further out of the bores in the head which may or may not increase wear on the bucket bores. Add to this that you won't be able to have near the range of profiles that are available on new billets. You can have the old cams welded and reground but it really doesn't end up any cheaper than new billet cams and takes quite a while to do. If there was nothing else available it's worth doing but when there is I can't see a benefit.

Compare that to a pair of new billets, from around the $1200 mark from memory for Tomei or $1450 or so for HKS in a range of profiles that run the same base circle as standard so setting tappets is going to be quite an easy job, most will more than likely be within tolerances, you can fit them in 1 day and your car isn't off the road waiting for parts. Add to that you can probably sell your old STD cams for $200 to someone who wants to play with an RB20 or 25 and the cost difference is pretty negligible, especially if you're paying someone to fit them. Also, if you ever plan to sell your car, brand name cams are a good selling point compared to regrinds.

Theres nothing really wrong with regrinding cams for most engines where you have easy valve clearance adjustment and it's quite cheap to have done but in an engine with shim adjustment where new billet cams are available it's false economy in my opinion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I like mine. Much better than stock. Like i said before the reverse/parking cameras look even worse than normal, still useable. When you buy one make sure it's the latest version. Heaps of cheap ones that run the old hardware and software. Got mine from AliExpress. Mine is quick no lag, boots up 1-2 sec. Menu is fast. Netflix is fine and so is YouTube. Android Auto is random taking 3sec to 15sec. Most of the time it's quick. Very rare it doesn't connect. But that could be a phone thing.   Now I think they use a Pixel 3XL to run this whole thing which i guess is fine, but the problem is that some apps will not work on old hardware like Disney Plus  Maybe Prime Video too 🤔. they will not update. Iv'e tried getting the APK Disney + but i still couldn't get it working. I have a Data sim installed so i have internet all the time. You can't Hotspot off your phone and connect Android Auto at the same time. Not that you need too, if you want you can hotspot off your phone and run any internet map app (google maps) and you can run the Spotify app on it's own (the app runs better than android auto) You can still access the INFINITI intouch system for all the o.g stuff    P.S i got new non Polarization Sunglasses too 😎 
    • I also don't mean to rain on your parade. But with a 5-10k budget for road only? I'd want to check confirmation that everything IS working correctly and I'm with @GTSBoy for a plan of action here. I'd be checking subframes, bushes, exhaust hangers, interior bits and generally QOL things and CONFIRMING they are working right before thinking about motor. You can get 250KW+ on stock RB26 hardware by simply removing the built in restrictors and tuning the stock ECU. If you want purity that's as far to take it, which I would be worried to do and won't think the budget would allow for when earnestly checking for 30+ year old car stuff.
    • I specifically said buy new performance car because of the use case here (i.e, no track use and fun livable everything/do it all easily if not especially amazing as a drivers car). Tracking an 80K Skyline and an 80K M2 makes the BMW the obviously more risky purchase WHEN something goes wrong you suddenly can't easily fix it with hand tools and readily available parts that you may have a community of people you know available, or years of your own knowledge on the platform to apply. There's reasons you see Hondas and Vettes and RB's and Miatas and such at tracks, you can easily hand-tool repair 99.9% of it in a shed, usually with the tools and the skillset of the owner to apply to it. An i30N is not going to beat a R chassis unless it's got massive problems either. The old cars can, and still do work great. The problem is - and always has been - social media would have you believe it's simple and easy to achieve the results you see online.  People want their car to be like "one of those cool JDM cars" which is the default image people have when they think of  "cool JDM cars" You are paying 25 years of catchup R&D to achieve. Or the knowledge somebody else has to do it for you, which is big dollar restomod stuff.  The bar has been moved and every R chassis that people see/like/enjoy has 25 years of R&D thrown at it, or is owned by someone who did all that work and has that knowledge over the past 25 years. All the survivors have been progressively resto-modded the entire time. OR you slowly bring it back to how it was stock. Which is also prohibitively expensive, done for the love of it. This is what the JDM community is now. This is fine, but "Where do I start?" is either: 1) Don't 2) Take your own slow journey but you cannot compare your progress with others who have had 25 years of R&D and experience building their own cars unless you pay for it.
    • Yep, with the crazy inflation of the value of our cars these past couple of years this became a problem for me too... My solution is to transition to bikes. Everything feels so cheap compared to tracking the skyline lol
    • So, I've been a little busy on this car. I replaced the bonnet struts which is always satisfying but very confusing that nobody else on the planet seems to do this. Its just my routine first thing I do on any car I buy. The boot struts for both the tailgate and the separately opening glass window was a bastard. And, I found a fair bit of rust in the strut cavity. I filled it with rust converter and cleaned up as much of the dirt as I could. There was so much dirt. One piece of the trim was barely hanging on and so I've left it off. I'll try to get a replacement. You can see how disgusting and dirty it all was in this thread; I had to remove the little clips that hold the struts on the ball. The ones I took off had no clips and it was impossible to get them on with them in place. Fingers crossed they stay put. So, I turned my attention to the headlights, they were in a bad way and likely would stop rego. I took the headlights out and found the adjusters were all just loose. So, I fixed those and unclipped the lenses to clean them up. Couldn't believe how easy it was to take all this apart compared to the E90.   I also cleaned up the stockies which was awesome, these are super cool with lug nut covers. They're in good nic but the tyres are shot. I was going to use these for rego but in the end got a fresh pair of rubber for the 17's on the front of the car instead. The front bar of this car is from a late(r) model one. I don't think it's quite LCI but who knows. I'll need to find out. Anyway, the bar was missing the fog lights and the wiring and plugs were for the original ones so I got new plugs and some cheap fogs. I wasn't sure if missing original equipment would hamper my blue slip attempts. Had a couple of these little fellas helping out. But not Ben who got stuck behind the pool heater .... How embarressment.  I ordered new speed sensors for all corners because I knew one was out. I just got cheapies and will replace them with Bosch items when I can find Bosch items. Again, this was just for rego. Alas, it seems the blue speed sensors are not the same as the grey ones. Back they went and replacements ordered. In the end, with my new scan tool, it was just rear left that was shot. Replaced it and cleared the codes. All good now. Lastly, my aux (thermo) fan is being a bit odd. Its powering up at strange times and NOT powering up when I think it should (100C). While this can be caused by a few things, the most likely (for me) is the ambient temp sensor. Given mine reads -40.0C regardless of the temp, I figured it would be good to replace it. In the end, the sensor wiring was abysmal with (terrible) attempts made by somebody to fix it.   I fixed this all up but the sensor is only attached using pins into the wires. The plug is not there. Despite trying and trying to connect it securely it wouldn't work so a replacement sensor and plug is on the way. Oh, I also ordered a replacement piece of trim for the part missing here at the bottom. Ordered from Latvia for $70 delivered. I took a bit of a leap of faith because I didn't have the exact part number and, as usual, there were eleventy billion pieces of trim that looked to fit. Nailed it. Well, its not totally perfect but I think its more a 28 y/o car problem than a trim problem. And, as of today ..... I have bought the workshop manuals 2nd hand off a guy in tassie. 1000+ pages of E39 goodness, hopefully it helps me with the fan. I also have a new temp switch on the way incase its the problem. Stoked.
×
×
  • Create New...