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Run-in periods.

IOWNU

By IOWNU,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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IOWNU Grand Master

IOWNU

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I'm getting a rebuild done on my RB26 and just needed some info on the run-in period. (Yes i tried searching!)

What are the do's and don'ts during this run in period, and generally how long/how many kms does should it last...my mechanic suggested "normal" driving for at least a month! I'm assuming I will have less power for a while....and the car will feel a lot rougher.

Anyways any info would be gr8.

Thanx

Ali

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dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted

Some people say that, other say rev the tits off it. Others say dyno ONLY for the first 50kms, as in, tow it to the dyno, use an engine dyno if you can. Some say easy for first 500kms then flog it. Etc etc.

I really dont think there is an actual way to run the engine in properly, there are so many different theorys.

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IOWNU Grand Master

IOWNU

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Look, a time machine!

LoLz....how much would it cost to use the dyno?

What i also meant to ask is....once the engine is rebuilt, properly, if i pik it up from the workshop and "thrash" it...will it go bang again? As you said some ppl say thrash it nice, i assume no?

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siksII Grand Master

siksII

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Posted

o not use synthetic or even semi synth to run in your motor, or the rings wont bed in and it will use a huge amount of oil

use mineral oil to start with and change frequently, then move up to semi synth and after a few thousand kms use fully synthetic.

load up the engine but not for long periods and dont use high revs, dont drive it softly or the rings wont bed in.

gradually load it up for longer periods and higher rpms as you cover more kms.

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600hp Proficient

600hp

Posted
Posted

When we had our motor done, it has had full synthetic from the word go!

As for the tune we had a really soft tune for the first 500km then they got it to idle better.then after 2000km's they tune the car so it ran perfect and they raised the rev limiter from 7000rpm to 7500.

after another 3000km we raised the boost more and raised the revs to 8500.

power went from 250AWKW to 290AWKW to 332AWKW and the last tune with a 4''exhaust 360AWKW!

All the work was performed at CRD and there has never been one problem with the car.as for the comment of it will drink oil if you use full synthetic from the start . we have done about 9000km's since the rebuild.there has been no sign of the car drinking oil.

We have been very happy with the service at CRD and team there.

Before you all start saying thats such a long run in period, it's not long when you drive the car every day and you intend to do that same thing for a long time from now.

Also CRD run the car at about 1500rpm and around that for roughly 3-4 hours on the dyno after the engine is back in the car.(yes i have seen them do this!)

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wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
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If you ask any engine builder they will tell you to use mineral oil , some will use run in oil ( monograde ) .

Ask any oil company and they will tell you the same , in the end its your call .

Keep in mind while you are runing it in , don't idle for long periods of time , don't stay at the same rpm or load and don't rev it to the limit .

Vary the speed and load as much as possible , short bursts of full throtle , she should be run in by the time you do 500-1000 k's .

If you use mormal mineral oil ( not run in oil ) change it and the filter after 1000 km .

If you use run in oil after 500 km .

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someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
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Ask any oil company and they will tell you the same , in the end its your call .

Keep in mind while you are runing it in , don't idle for long periods of time , don't stay at the same rpm or load and don't rev it to the limit  .

Just out of interest is it ok to warm it up (staying at the same rpm) or should just you just go straight away and be gentle?

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siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

u should go straight away and be gentle

only thing to wait for is for oil presure to come up (maybe 15 seconds thats it) dont sit there and idle it to warm up like a lot of people do, the car will be slow to warm up and idling for long periods will glaze the bores.

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R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

ok.

My motor.

Rings bedded in on the Dyno, using fully synthetic oil

Once that was done boost was put in and tuned.

And i drove it out the roller door and have not had a problem in 7000km's.

Power is excellent, certainly not dropping off anywhere. And its no different to others guys who drive around like a grandma for thier 5000 or 10,000km's.

Bed them rings and go have some fun

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Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Hey guys,

              I'm getting a rebuild done on my RB26 and just needed some info on the run-in period. (Yes i tried searching!)

What are the do's and don'ts during this run in period, and generally how long/how many kms does should it last...my mechanic suggested "normal" driving for at least a month! I'm assuming I will have less power for a while....and the car will feel a lot rougher.

Anyways any info would be gr8.

Thanx

Ali

Hi Ali, ask your engine builder what he recommends. He built it, he knows the tolerances, he knows what sort of rings and bore hone he used, he knows what the bearing tolerances were etc etc

What I do;

1. Use 100% mineral oil (Castrol GTX in my case)

2. Run for 10 minutes (not at idle)

3. Change oil filter

4. Drive to Bathurst and back (~500k's) lots of different up and downs, mountains, no constant flat running, change the engine loadings frequently

5. Change oil filter and oil to 100% synthetic (Castrol Formula R in my case)

6. Stick it on the dyno and tune it

If I am unsure of the tune (new spec engine or turbo etc) then I stick it on the dyno between #3 and #4 just to make sure the A/F ratios are good and it has no knock.

:)

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pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted

26gts and sydneykid are on the mark

change the first batch of oil early on

and drive the car under varying loads and rpm

ie a nice hilly drive with a few mates in the car etc just dont buzz it (high revs)or baby it to much it needs to be worked and loaded to bed everything in.

pete

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NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
Posted

I was just told to stay off boost for the 1st 500km (under 3000rpm) and ensure that I warmed the car up properly, without letting it sit and idle... ie I would just sit there for a few minutes and idle it while varying the revs up to about 1500rpm or so... If I drove it dead cold it was a little rattly...

after 500km I changed oil... after 1,000km I changed it again and drove away on holiday to batemans bay in NSW (9hr drive) and dynoed it when I got back and it has been silky smooth ever since...

I guess it depends on how modified your motor is, if it is anything like Ash's or SK's and not much is stock I would throw it on the dyno sooner rather than later but mine is running the stock ecu so I just ran it in by driving...

so yeah everyone has pretty much said it all already... its all up to the guy who paid for it and the guy who built it!

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